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Date: 08 Jun 2006 11:31:27
From: Gerard Eberlein
Subject: oxygenating techniques
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So far I have been using the big food grade paddle I got from my LHBS that I
use for wort boil stirring to basically whip my cooled wort. I have had no
troubles with a good start and save my first batch (which by the way is in
bottle and waiting another week to test it) have all been very active
ferments thoughout the first 7 days. My question I guess is how much risk of
bad yeasts entering the wort am I taking whipping it by paddle for 10
minutes. Yes it's a bit of elbow grease but it's all I have to use for now.
Thanx in advance.
Gerard
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 09:39:47
From: bregent
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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In article <MpXhg.9$2_4.1@fe06.lga >, Gerard Eberlein says...
>
>So far I have been using the big food grade paddle I got from my LHBS that I
>use for wort boil stirring to basically whip my cooled wort. I have had no
>troubles with a good start and save my first batch (which by the way is in
>bottle and waiting another week to test it) have all been very active
>ferments thoughout the first 7 days. My question I guess is how much risk of
>bad yeasts entering the wort am I taking whipping it by paddle for 10
>minutes. Yes it's a bit of elbow grease but it's all I have to use for now.
>Thanx in advance.
Pitch large and you shouldn't have any problem with airborne microbes. And do
yourself a favor and get a mix-stir aerator. They're cheap and will do the job
you're doing now (probably better) in about 30 seconds.
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 09:50:19
From: John Krehbiel
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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> My question I guess is how much risk of
> bad yeasts entering the wort am I taking whipping it by paddle for 10
> minutes.
I wouldn't worry too much about that, as long as you are pitching a
vigorous starter.
FWIW, I use my immersion chiller to aerate. As the wort gets cool
enough that HSA is no longer a concern, I repeatedly raise the chiller
and allow the wort to flow back into the pot. I figure the cooling
action of the chiller is enhanced by evaporation, and the large surface
area exposed to air does the trick. I used to use a ladle and whip it
up, but I realized that the layer of foam I was creating was keeping
air away from the liquid wort.
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 14:01:43
From: Gerard Eberlein
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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Yea my paddle does have holes in it but can't hook it up to a drill, so I
assume it's getting air. I whip the top some till it froths then go deep and
kinda fold the top into the bottom and so on...gets a nice head on it..lol.
only thing i worry about with using a stir paddle is my drill is
dirty...would wrap plastic around it but wouldn't that stick when the drill
got hot and/or overheat my drill?
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 18:39:46
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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Gerard Eberlein <dormouse@charter.net > wrote:
>
> Yea my paddle does have holes in it but can't hook it up to a drill, so I
> assume it's getting air. I whip the top some till it froths then go deep and
> kinda fold the top into the bottom and so on...gets a nice head on it..lol.
> only thing i worry about with using a stir paddle is my drill is
> dirty...would wrap plastic around it but wouldn't that stick when the drill
> got hot and/or overheat my drill?
>
Just clean your darn drill!
:-)
--------------------------------------------
John Bleichert - syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 16:45:07
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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On Thu, 8 Jun 2006 11:31:27 -0400, <dormouse@charter.net > wrote:
> So far I have been using the big food grade paddle I got from my LHBS that I
> use for wort boil stirring to basically whip my cooled wort. I have had no
> troubles with a good start and save my first batch (which by the way is in
> bottle and waiting another week to test it) have all been very active
> ferments thoughout the first 7 days. My question I guess is how much risk of
> bad yeasts entering the wort am I taking whipping it by paddle for 10
> minutes. Yes it's a bit of elbow grease but it's all I have to use for now.
Minimal risk, I wouldn't worry about it.
IMO, there are easier/better methods for aerating though. I like to use a
Mix-Stir aerator, which is basically something like a paint stirrer that
you attach to the end of a drill. It's relatively cheap (assuming you
already own a drill), easy to use, and very effective.
John.
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 16:36:59
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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Gerard Eberlein <dormouse@charter.net > wrote:
> So far I have been using the big food grade paddle I got from my LHBS that I
> use for wort boil stirring to basically whip my cooled wort. I have had no
> troubles with a good start and save my first batch (which by the way is in
> bottle and waiting another week to test it) have all been very active
> ferments thoughout the first 7 days. My question I guess is how much risk of
> bad yeasts entering the wort am I taking whipping it by paddle for 10
> minutes. Yes it's a bit of elbow grease but it's all I have to use for now.
> Thanx in advance.
>
> Gerard
>
>
I use one of these (found at my LHBS):
http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID1261911P3620960-Brew-and-Rack/Spoons-and-Paddles/Mix-Stir-Aerator.aspx
(sorry for the long URL, hard picture to find.) Coupled with a good
starter it works well.
--------------------------------------------
John Bleichert - syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 11:44:33
From: MDixon
Subject: Re: unmalted wheat
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Jim Zlogar <hamlover@gmail.com > wrote in message
news:1149698321.578013.84260@c74g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Hi. I just got a big bag of standard wheat (non-malted).
> Is there anything I can do with this for brewing?
>
> I know it has no diastatic power, but if I mixed it in at
> 15-20%, wouldn't the enzymes from the barley malt
> convert the wheat starch to sugar (maltose)?
>
You can mix it in higher than that. Be sure to crush and I would gelatinize
it by boiling for a few minutes. Wheat has a wide range of gelainization
temps depending upon type and I have never found a definitive temp so
boiling solves any potential issues as to whether the wheat is ready to
convert or not.
Cheers,
Mike
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 19:32:41
From: Homebrew Exchange
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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I thought about getting a "Gulfstream Oxygenation System," which you
use with an oxygen tank to inject pure oxygen into the wort. Obviously,
you have to be careful not to add too much oxygen so the yeast doesn't
go into shock, but fermentation should be faster and the beer
supposedly tastes "cleaner."
Another way I heard that you could oxygenate is to use an aquarium air
pump with an air stone. This would be a lot cheaper too.
Dave
www.homebrew-exchange.com
Bob wrote:
> "Donald D Duck" <Daffy@duck.com> wrote in message news:1p_hg.42375$fb2.18244@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net...
> > I pump my wort through my counterflow chiller to the top of my conical
> > fermenter (toledo metal spinning 12.2gallon cone) causing it to splash as it
> > falls into fermenter. Now of course as it fills there is less and less
> > splashing. So once the wort is transfered completely to the fermenter, I
> > have an 18" stainless steel spoon that i sanitze and use to vigorously stir
> > the worth for about a minute or so till i have a nice frothy layer on top
> > before pitching my yeast. I tend to have very fast starting fermentations
> > using this method.
>
> I was given a counterflow chiller that had a small hole on its output end. I was told
> that running a siphon from that end cause it to draw small bubbles into the beer
> as it transfered into the fermenter. I haven't yet tried it.
>
> Bob
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 18:55:57
From: Donald D Duck
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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I pump my wort through my counterflow chiller to the top of my conical
fermenter (toledo metal spinning 12.2gallon cone) causing it to splash as it
falls into fermenter. Now of course as it fills there is less and less
splashing. So once the wort is transfered completely to the fermenter, I
have an 18" stainless steel spoon that i sanitze and use to vigorously stir
the worth for about a minute or so till i have a nice frothy layer on top
before pitching my yeast. I tend to have very fast starting fermentations
using this method.
"Gerard Eberlein" <dormouse@charter.net > wrote in message
news:MpXhg.9$2_4.1@fe06.lga...
> So far I have been using the big food grade paddle I got from my LHBS that
> I
> use for wort boil stirring to basically whip my cooled wort. I have had no
> troubles with a good start and save my first batch (which by the way is in
> bottle and waiting another week to test it) have all been very active
> ferments thoughout the first 7 days. My question I guess is how much risk
> of
> bad yeasts entering the wort am I taking whipping it by paddle for 10
> minutes. Yes it's a bit of elbow grease but it's all I have to use for
> now.
> Thanx in advance.
>
> Gerard
>
>
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 17:50:55
From: Bob
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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"Donald D Duck" <Daffy@duck.com > wrote in message news:1p_hg.42375$fb2.18244@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net...
> I pump my wort through my counterflow chiller to the top of my conical
> fermenter (toledo metal spinning 12.2gallon cone) causing it to splash as it
> falls into fermenter. Now of course as it fills there is less and less
> splashing. So once the wort is transfered completely to the fermenter, I
> have an 18" stainless steel spoon that i sanitze and use to vigorously stir
> the worth for about a minute or so till i have a nice frothy layer on top
> before pitching my yeast. I tend to have very fast starting fermentations
> using this method.
I was given a counterflow chiller that had a small hole on its output end. I was told
that running a siphon from that end cause it to draw small bubbles into the beer
as it transfered into the fermenter. I haven't yet tried it.
Bob
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Date: 09 Jun 2006 10:41:31
From: Thomas T. Veldhouse
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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Bob <bobnospam@gmail.com > wrote:
>
> I was given a counterflow chiller that had a small hole on its output end. I was told
> that running a siphon from that end cause it to draw small bubbles into the beer
> as it transfered into the fermenter. I haven't yet tried it.
>
Yes indeed. It is a venturi effect, the fluid passing under the hole causes a
reduction in pressure and air will move in to fill it, thus injecting air into
your worst stream.
--
Thomas T. Veldhouse
Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
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Date: 09 Jun 2006 12:17:37
From: Thomas T. Veldhouse
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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Thomas T. Veldhouse <veldy71@yahoo.com > wrote:
> Bob <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I was given a counterflow chiller that had a small hole on its output end. I was told
>> that running a siphon from that end cause it to draw small bubbles into the beer
>> as it transfered into the fermenter. I haven't yet tried it.
>>
>
> Yes indeed. It is a venturi effect, the fluid passing under the hole causes a
> reduction in pressure and air will move in to fill it, thus injecting air into
> your worst stream.
>
Wort stream would have been a better description ;-)
--
Thomas T. Veldhouse
Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 14:05:12
From: Thomas T. Veldhouse
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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Donald D Duck <Daffy@duck.com > wrote:
> I pump my wort through my counterflow chiller to the top of my conical
> fermenter (toledo metal spinning 12.2gallon cone) causing it to splash as it
> falls into fermenter. Now of course as it fills there is less and less
> splashing. So once the wort is transfered completely to the fermenter, I
> have an 18" stainless steel spoon that i sanitze and use to vigorously stir
> the worth for about a minute or so till i have a nice frothy layer on top
> before pitching my yeast. I tend to have very fast starting fermentations
> using this method.
>
I don't think that will even come close to being an adequate form of
aeriation, although it certainly doesn't hurt. You would do a lot better by
adding turbulance near the entrance to the carboy to cause a circulation of
fresh air to be pulled into the carboy. You could pour it through mesh into
the carboy for instance.
--
Thomas T. Veldhouse
Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
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Date: 08 Jun 2006 13:24:06
From: Thomas T. Veldhouse
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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Gerard Eberlein <dormouse@charter.net > wrote:
> So far I have been using the big food grade paddle I got from my LHBS that I
> use for wort boil stirring to basically whip my cooled wort. I have had no
> troubles with a good start and save my first batch (which by the way is in
> bottle and waiting another week to test it) have all been very active
> ferments thoughout the first 7 days. My question I guess is how much risk of
> bad yeasts entering the wort am I taking whipping it by paddle for 10
> minutes. Yes it's a bit of elbow grease but it's all I have to use for now.
I managed to use nothing more than my brewing spoon for many years. Only in
the last couple of years did I get a stone and valve and put together a simple
oxygenation system. Never had a beer turn on me due to mixing with a spoon
either. I bad bread at home, so I probably have a large supply of yeast
around the house that would make a beer go off a bit, but it never managed to
take hold in any of my beers. The key is to pitch a large population of yeast
from a starter or dry yeast pack.
--
Thomas T. Veldhouse
Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
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Date: 09 Jun 2006 04:22:30
From: Brew Man
Subject: Re: oxygenating techniques
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The aquarium pump and stone will work and I used it successfully for
many batches. What I do now is I pour the wort from my brew pot to the
fermentor, back to the brew pot, back to the fermentor, etc.... This
seems to work just fine for my beer and I have yet to spill a drop.
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