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Date: 30 Sep 2006 21:30:46
From: Gerard Eberlein
Subject: need help quick
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OK here's the deal...I have an arrogant IPA that at 6 days still has heavy
krausen and is still bubling alot. I wanted to secondary it and dry hop it
but circumstances say I have to move on saturday the 14th of ober. Can I
dry hop it now even though it's not done ferming? I really want to get this
brew bottled before I move...I can't imagine packing a carboy full of beer.
Thanx in advance.
Gerard
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Date: 01 Oct 2006 02:08:41
From: Scott Sellers
Subject: Re: need help quick
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Gerard Eberlein <dormouse@charter.net >:
>OK here's the deal...I have an arrogant IPA that at 6 days still
>has heavy krausen and is still bubling alot. I wanted to
>secondary it and dry hop it but circumstances say I have to move
>on saturday the 14th of ober. Can I dry hop it now even
>though it's not done ferming? I really want to get this brew
>bottled before I move...I can't imagine packing a carboy full of
>beer. Thanx in advance.
If you dryhop during active fermentation, the hop volatiles can
be scrubbed by the CO2 output. You need to choose a balance
between this, and not having the hops in long enough.
I'd give it a few more days to primary (maybe raise the temp a
little to speed things up -- if it's on the cool end now).
Dryhop for the final week before bottling.
Scott S
--
Scott Sellers
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Date: 01 Oct 2006 09:13:21
From: Mark R
Subject: Re: need help quick
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"Scott Sellers" <scottsellers@mindspring.com > wrote in message
news:JqFTg.3547$Y24.897@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> Gerard Eberlein <dormouse@charter.net>:
>
>
> >OK here's the deal...I have an arrogant IPA that at 6 days still
> >has heavy krausen and is still bubling alot. I wanted to
> >secondary it and dry hop it but circumstances say I have to move
> >on saturday the 14th of ober. Can I dry hop it now even
> >though it's not done ferming? I really want to get this brew
> >bottled before I move...I can't imagine packing a carboy full of
> >beer. Thanx in advance.
>
> If you dryhop during active fermentation, the hop volatiles can
> be scrubbed by the CO2 output. You need to choose a balance
> between this, and not having the hops in long enough.
>
> I'd give it a few more days to primary (maybe raise the temp a
> little to speed things up -- if it's on the cool end now).
> Dryhop for the final week before bottling.
>
You know your a Home Brewer when......
The secondary and the bottling equipment are the last things to be packed on
moving day. :-)
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Date: 01 Oct 2006 19:23:04
From: David M. Taylor
Subject: Re: need help quick
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"Gerard Eberlein" <dormouse@charter.net > wrote in message
news:tTETg.181$YZ1.152@newsfe05.lga...
> OK here's the deal...I have an arrogant IPA that at 6 days still has heavy
> krausen and is still bubling alot. I wanted to secondary it and dry hop it
> but circumstances say I have to move on saturday the 14th of ober. Can
> I
> dry hop it now even though it's not done ferming? I really want to get
> this
> brew bottled before I move...I can't imagine packing a carboy full of
> beer.
I wouldn't rack or dry hop yet. Some sources claim that the dry hops only
need to be in contact for like 3 days, you might not need a week or two
weeks for the dry hops. Just let it go for a few more days, and try not to
worry too much (yes, I know, a Papazianism, but it works).
--
Dave
"Just a drink, a little drink, and I'll be feeling GOOooOOooOOooD!" --
Genesis, 1973-ish
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Date: 02 Oct 2006 15:26:33
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: need help quick
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On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 21:30:46 -0400, <dormouse@charter.net > wrote:
> OK here's the deal...I have an arrogant IPA that at 6 days still has heavy
> krausen and is still bubling alot. I wanted to secondary it and dry hop it
> but circumstances say I have to move on saturday the 14th of ober. Can I
> dry hop it now even though it's not done ferming? I really want to get this
> brew bottled before I move...I can't imagine packing a carboy full of beer.
> Thanx in advance.
You *can* dry hop it now, but you won't get as much effect as you would
if it were being dry hopped after fermentation. That may be the best
that you can do under the circumstances though. You'll still get some
benefit.
John.
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Date: 02 Oct 2006 13:28:58
From: Gerard Eberlein
Subject: Re: need help quick
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"John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net > wrote in message
news:slrnei2c44.r2b.spam@weizen.shagg.net...
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 21:30:46 -0400, <dormouse@charter.net> wrote:
> > OK here's the deal...I have an arrogant IPA that at 6 days still has
heavy
> > krausen and is still bubling alot. I wanted to secondary it and dry hop
it
> > but circumstances say I have to move on saturday the 14th of ober.
Can I
> > dry hop it now even though it's not done ferming? I really want to get
this
> > brew bottled before I move...I can't imagine packing a carboy full of
beer.
> > Thanx in advance.
>
> You *can* dry hop it now, but you won't get as much effect as you would
> if it were being dry hopped after fermentation. That may be the best
> that you can do under the circumstances though. You'll still get some
> benefit.
>
>
> John.
I think what I'm gonna do is keep it in primary....so it will be a total of
3 weeks in primary and that shouldn't be too much time on the trub from what
I've read and what I've learned here and from people. Someone suggested
putting it in a milk crate, which I have, and the carboy does fit, and
putting it in the back of the SUV I will be towing on a flatbed behind the
moving truck. I'll just try to secure it really well and cover it with a
blanket to keep it from skunking. Hopefully it will make it there in one
piece, if not I'll be hosing out the truck..lol. Then I'll rack and dry hop
the day after I move.
Gerard
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Date: 02 Oct 2006 18:08:05
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: need help quick
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On Mon, 2 2006 13:28:58 -0400, <dormouse@charter.net > wrote:
> I think what I'm gonna do is keep it in primary....so it will be a total of
> 3 weeks in primary and that shouldn't be too much time on the trub from what
> I've read and what I've learned here and from people. Someone suggested
> putting it in a milk crate, which I have, and the carboy does fit, and
> putting it in the back of the SUV I will be towing on a flatbed behind the
> moving truck. I'll just try to secure it really well and cover it with a
> blanket to keep it from skunking. Hopefully it will make it there in one
> piece, if not I'll be hosing out the truck..lol. Then I'll rack and dry hop
> the day after I move.
That should work. It'll probably get shaken up pretty bad, so you probably
want to let it sit for a few days and settle again before you rack. That's no
big deal though.
John.
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Date: 02 Oct 2006 18:34:45
From: Gerard Eberlein
Subject: Re: need help quick
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"John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net > wrote in message
news:slrnei2lj1.r2b.spam@weizen.shagg.net...
>
> That should work. It'll probably get shaken up pretty bad, so you
probably
> want to let it sit for a few days and settle again before you rack.
That's no
> big deal though.
>
>
> John.
How about if I added hops right after I moved before it settled? Would that
be a problem? Then I could just leave it in primary for another week and
just go straight to bottle.
Gerard
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Date: 03 Oct 2006 14:13:30
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: need help quick
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On Mon, 2 2006 18:34:45 -0400, <dormouse@charter.net > wrote:
>
> "John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net> wrote in message
> news:slrnei2lj1.r2b.spam@weizen.shagg.net...
>>
>> That should work. It'll probably get shaken up pretty bad, so you
> probably
>> want to let it sit for a few days and settle again before you rack.
> That's no
>> big deal though.
>>
>>
>> John.
>
> How about if I added hops right after I moved before it settled? Would that
> be a problem? Then I could just leave it in primary for another week and
> just go straight to bottle.
Yeah, IMO if you're going to move the carboy full then the time constraints
of trying to hurry up and get the dry hopping done are removed. In that
case, I'd move the carboy and then dry hop it when you get to your new
location. That'll let you dry hop it after fermentation is complete, which
is usually the best way to do it.
Personally I'd still let it settle and then rack to a secondary and dry
hop, but that's only because I like to secondary all my beers. That's not
required though, since a secondary is optional anyway. If you want to
skip the secondary, then dry hopping in the primary after the move should
be fine.
John.
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Date: 02 Oct 2006 16:32:38
From: Gerard Eberlein
Subject: Re: need help quick
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"John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net > wrote in message
news:slrnei2lj1.r2b.spam@weizen.shagg.net...
>
> That should work. It'll probably get shaken up pretty bad, so you
probably
> want to let it sit for a few days and settle again before you rack.
That's no
> big deal though.
>
>
> John.
yea good idea...forgot about all the shakin' it's gonna take. Thanx.
Gerard
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Date: 02 Oct 2006 10:15:09
From: JS
Subject: Re: need help quick
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On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 21:30:46 -0400, "Gerard Eberlein"
<dormouse@charter.net > wrote:
>OK here's the deal...I have an arrogant IPA that at 6 days still has heavy
>krausen and is still bubling alot. I wanted to secondary it and dry hop it
>but circumstances say I have to move on saturday the 14th of ober. Can I
>dry hop it now even though it's not done ferming? I really want to get this
>brew bottled before I move...I can't imagine packing a carboy full of beer.
>Thanx in advance.
>
>Gerard
>
I would be curious to know if you've made this recipe before. I'd
like to do an AB myself, and was wondering if you'd share the formula.
John S.
--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
------- >>>>>>http://www.NewsDem
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Date: 02 Oct 2006 13:43:36
From: Gerard Eberlein
Subject: Re: need help quick
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"JS" <jayceeessfouratfrontiernetdotnet > wrote in message
news:bl72i29ot4pl56alccfa7frf8fpadlkca9@4ax.com...
> I would be curious to know if you've made this recipe before. I'd
> like to do an AB myself, and was wondering if you'd share the formula.
>
> John S.
Yes I have made it the original way this recipe called for and it came out
quite nice but not as overwhelming as I thought it would be hopwise:
Arrogant Bastard - Extract
Style: American Specialty Ale
WARNING - This Beer is not for the faint of heart!!! You probably shouldn't
even be thinking of brewing a beer
of such monumental proportions, let alone drinking it. The heavy handed
doses of high alpha hops -
including the finishing (dry) hops will be right in your face. Backed up
with a complex malty backbone, this
beer packs a punch and then some. If you think that you're worthy, give it a
shot. Otherwise just stick with
your cans and corn sugar. (Starting Gravity: 1.074-1.080) (Finishing
Gravity: 1.014-1.020) (Approximate Alcohol
Content: 7.4-7.9%) (78 IBU)
Ingredients:
Amber DME 4.0 pounds
Wheat DME 4.0 pounds
*Special-B 8.0 ounces
*Biscuit 8.0 ounces
*Aromatic 8.0 ounces
*CaraMunich 8.0 ounces
Corn Sugar (Bottling) .75 cups
Magnum (Bittering - 60 min.) 1.0 ounces
Columbus (Bittering - 50 min.) 0.5 ounces
Centennial (Flavoring - 30 min.) 0.5 ounces
Centennial (Finishing - Dry) 1.0 ounces
Irish Moss 1.0 package
Wyeast #1056 American Ale 1.0 package
OR
White Labs #WLP-001 1.0 tube
Date Gravity
Brewing:
Racking:
Bottling:
Alcohol: %
Place cracked grain in grain bag and add to 2 to 2-1/2 gallons of water
(tap, filtered, or bottled.not distilled).
Turn burner to medium and allow grains to steep for a minimum of 30 minutes.
(150 to 155?F is ideal).
Remove grain bag and dissolve Dried Malt Extract (DME) in brew kettle. Make
sure that DME is completely dissolved before
applying heat.
Turn up heat to achieve boil.
Add 1 oz. Magnum bittering hops.set timer for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes.
Add .5 oz. Columbus.set timer for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes.
Add .5 oz. Centennial.set timer for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes.
Add Irish Moss.set timer for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes.
Remove from heat (NOTE: Add Dry Hops now if no secondary fermenter will be
used), cover pot and chill to 70 to 80°F.
Add to primary fermenter by straining through filter funnel, top up with
water to 5 gallons and mix and aerate well by
shaking fermenter or injecting filtered air or oxygen.
Pitch Yeast. If using Wyeast make sure the package is completely swollen.
White Lab's should be allowed to warm to
pitching temperature.
You should have active fermentation within 8 to 36 hours.
Once fermentation is complete, transfer to secondary (if you have one) and
add 1 oz. of Centennial Dry Hops for 1-4 weeks,
depending on how Arrogant you want this beer to be.
Bottle or Keg as usual.
This time I changed the recipe. I did:
5lbs wheat
5 lbs amber
same specialty grains and amounts.
FWH 1 oz simcoe
35 min 1/4 oz simcoe and 1/2 oz warrior
15 min 3/4 oz warrior
10 min 1/4 oz amarillo
flameout 1 oz amarillo
1 tab whirfloc15 min
wyeast 1056
Haven't dry hopped yet but plan on doing so with 1.5 oz simcoe.Might even
add a bit more amarillo
Tasted very nice when i took my OG hydro reading that was 1.091.
Good luck and enjoy:)
Gerard
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