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Date: 03 Sep 2006 18:55:21
From:
Subject: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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Hi
My father in law gave me an old soda pin lock keg and a pretty large
CO2 tank -- The keg is worn on the outside but seems totally great on
the inside. From instructions I have read, it is important to
dismantle all parts prior to use -- for cleaning purposes. Now I cant
get the connector points (or what are the parts with the pins on them
that connect to the gas and diptube?) off. Midwest has a deep set
socket that it sells for around $20 -- is this the sort of tool that I
need to get these buggers off. I have one of those wrenches that I can
tighten and turn and it fits pretty snug but still will refuse to
unscrew -- I am turning counter clockwise (but frankly it wont budge
either direction). Any help or advice would be appreciated.
On a related note, is it essential to unscrew these parts. Would it be
criminal not to bother?
Its really difficult.
Also the CO2 tank is pretty large -- I suspect it is a 15 or 20
pounder. Do you think I could exchange that at a welding shop for a
small tank to fit in my new Sanyo 4912?
Thanks
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Date: 04 Sep 2006 16:37:24
From: Scott Sellers
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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sheheryarhasnain@hotmail.com <sheheryarhasnain@hotmail.com >:
>Hi
>My father in law gave me an old soda pin lock keg and a pretty
>large CO2 tank -- The keg is worn on the outside but seems
>totally great on the inside. From instructions I have read, it
>is important to dismantle all parts prior to use -- for cleaning
>purposes. Now I cant get the connector points (or what are the
>parts with the pins on them that connect to the gas and
>diptube?) off. Midwest has a deep set socket that it sells for
>around $20 -- is this the sort of tool that I need to get these
>buggers off. I have one of those wrenches that I can tighten
>and turn and it fits pretty snug but still will refuse to
>unscrew -- I am turning counter clockwise (but frankly it wont
>budge either direction). Any help or advice would be
>appreciated.
It's tough to get a good grip on a corney keg. How big is the
crescent wrench you are using? If it's smallish, you can improve
leverage by fitting a piece of pipe over the end. Perhaps get
some help, and have one person pin the keg on the floor, say
against a carpet/rubber matt, and the other turn the wrench. Or
hit it, gently, with a mallet.
Make sure the wrench is set on the post well, and don't do
anything rash to strip the corners off.
good luck,
Scott S
--
Scott Sellers
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Date: 04 Sep 2006 14:38:46
From: Brian Foster
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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Just a thought but you could try visiting your local softdrink distributor
(Pepsi, Coke, Dr Pepper) and bring your keg with you. They probably have a
guy there who is intimately familiar with these things since they still use
them all the time.
My local HBS is pretty knowledgeable too.
<sheheryarhasnain@hotmail.com > wrote in message
news:1157334921.926275.70240@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
> Hi
> My father in law gave me an old soda pin lock keg and a pretty large
> CO2 tank -- The keg is worn on the outside but seems totally great on
> the inside. From instructions I have read, it is important to
> dismantle all parts prior to use -- for cleaning purposes. Now I cant
> get the connector points (or what are the parts with the pins on them
> that connect to the gas and diptube?) off. Midwest has a deep set
> socket that it sells for around $20 -- is this the sort of tool that I
> need to get these buggers off. I have one of those wrenches that I can
> tighten and turn and it fits pretty snug but still will refuse to
> unscrew -- I am turning counter clockwise (but frankly it wont budge
> either direction). Any help or advice would be appreciated.
>
> On a related note, is it essential to unscrew these parts. Would it be
> criminal not to bother?
> Its really difficult.
>
> Also the CO2 tank is pretty large -- I suspect it is a 15 or 20
> pounder. Do you think I could exchange that at a welding shop for a
> small tank to fit in my new Sanyo 4912?
> Thanks
>
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Date: 04 Sep 2006 08:15:00
From: Steve Kranz
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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sheheryarhasnain@hotmail.com wrote:
> From instructions I have read, it is important to
> dismantle all parts prior to use -- for cleaning purposes. Now I cant
> get the connector points (or what are the parts with the pins on them
> that connect to the gas and diptube?) off. Midwest has a deep set
> socket that it sells for around $20 -- is this the sort of tool that I
> need to get these buggers off.
Yes, it is important to dismantle kegs for cleaning, as well as for
maintenance purposes. Inside each of the posts is a spring-loaded
"poppet" valve which seals the keg closed when the connectors are
removed. These valves can wear out over time and occasionally need to
be replaced. In addition to cleaning the posts and poppets, there is
also a little o-ring on each of the dip-tubes which should also be
replaced on an old keg.
The modified deep socket is indeed the tool you need. It has slots cut
into it which fit both the gas and liquid posts of the keg. If you use
any other wrench which grabs hold of any of the pins, you will
eventually shear them off (...have done that m'self) and the keg will be
unusable.
> I am turning counter clockwise (but frankly it wont budge
> either direction).
With the modified deep socket and a socket wrench, you should be able to
apply enough torque to get them off...tap the wrench with a hammer if
you need to in order to loosen it. They unscrew conventionally (i.e.
counter-clockwise).
> Also the CO2 tank is pretty large -- I suspect it is a 15 or 20
> pounder. Do you think I could exchange that at a welding shop for a
> small tank to fit in my new Sanyo 4912?
Only thing you can do is take it to the CO2 supplier to see if they'll
swap it for you. If it is old, its certification will have expired and
would need to be re-tested, whether they take it in trade or just
re-fill it for you.
--
Steve Kranz
Homebrewer extraordinaire, banjo player mediocaire
Visit the Midnight Homebrewers' League on the web at:
http://users.adelphia.net/~smkranz
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Date: 05 Sep 2006 20:26:52
From: Bob
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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"Steve Kranz" <"smkranz[at]adelphia.net" > wrote in message
> > Also the CO2 tank is pretty large -- I suspect it is a 15 or 20
> > pounder. Do you think I could exchange that at a welding shop for a
> > small tank to fit in my new Sanyo 4912?
>
> Only thing you can do is take it to the CO2 supplier to see if they'll
> swap it for you. If it is old, its certification will have expired and
> would need to be re-tested, whether they take it in trade or just
> re-fill it for you.
My CO2 supplier doesn't ewven look at the certification before swapping.
I swapped a same size NO2 tank for a CO2 tank with no problem.
Bob
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Date: 04 Sep 2006 04:57:51
From: Alf McLaughlin
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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> On a related note, is it essential to unscrew these parts. Would it be
> criminal not to bother?
> Its really difficult.
I have 3 kegs and 1 of them is a little different than the other 2. I
have no idea how to get the posts off this one so I don't bother (I
need something besides a wrench I think). I simply scrub it out with a
carboy brush as best I can with dishwasher detergent and hot water,
then I let it soak in iodophor until I'm ready to use it. So far, I
have never had a problem with the beer but I do wish I could get the
damn things off to give it a more thorough cleaning. I have gone
through about 4 batches of beer this way and they all turned out well.
For now, I wouldn't bother if you are eager to get going.
> Also the CO2 tank is pretty large -- I suspect it is a 15 or 20
> pounder. Do you think I could exchange that at a welding shop for a
> small tank to fit in my new Sanyo 4912?
> Thanks
I recently found a guy who was happy to take my empty 7.5 lb tank in
exchange for a 5 lb tank. I guess this depends on who you talk to; try
calling around.
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Date: 05 Sep 2006 15:02:33
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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On 3 Sep 2006 18:55:21 -0700, <sheheryarhasnain@hotmail.com > wrote:
> Hi
> My father in law gave me an old soda pin lock keg and a pretty large
> CO2 tank -- The keg is worn on the outside but seems totally great on
> the inside. From instructions I have read, it is important to
> dismantle all parts prior to use -- for cleaning purposes. Now I cant
> get the connector points (or what are the parts with the pins on them
> that connect to the gas and diptube?) off. Midwest has a deep set
> socket that it sells for around $20 -- is this the sort of tool that I
> need to get these buggers off. I have one of those wrenches that I can
> tighten and turn and it fits pretty snug but still will refuse to
> unscrew -- I am turning counter clockwise (but frankly it wont budge
> either direction). Any help or advice would be appreciated.
The posts can get pretty stuck on there, especially if it is a really old
keg since it's had lots of time to sit around with soda residue in it. I
have one of those pin-lock deep sockets. However, a couple times I've had
to put it on a breaker bar and hit the whole thing with a hammer in order
to get the post to come off. They will unscrew counter clockwise. Don't
be afraid of putting a lot of force on them.
> On a related note, is it essential to unscrew these parts. Would it be
> criminal not to bother?
> Its really difficult.
It's not essential, but it is a good idea. Especially with an old keg with
an unknown history, you want to be sure to really clean it well the
first time. If the posts are so gummed up with residue that they're really
difficult to take apart, I would imagine that there's all sorts of gunk
inside them as well.
> Also the CO2 tank is pretty large -- I suspect it is a 15 or 20
> pounder. Do you think I could exchange that at a welding shop for a
> small tank to fit in my new Sanyo 4912?
> Thanks
How big is the tank in relation to the keg? IE, 1/2 as big, 1/4 as big...
In general, I would guess any shop would be more than happy to "trade down"
for a smaller keg. That's a deal that works out in their favor.
John.
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Date: 06 Sep 2006 09:29:08
From: Mark R
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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"John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net > wrote in message
>
> The posts can get pretty stuck on there, especially if it is a really old
> keg since it's had lots of time to sit around with soda residue in it. I
> have one of those pin-lock deep sockets. However, a couple times I've had
> to put it on a breaker bar and hit the whole thing with a hammer in order
> to get the post to come off. They will unscrew counter clockwise. Don't
> be afraid of putting a lot of force on them.
Have you (or anybody) considered using teflon tape when reinstalling the
posts? If used properly none will get in your beer and it should come off
much easier when it's time for cleaning.
Mark R
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Date: 07 Sep 2006 21:21:32
From: Scott Sellers
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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Mark R <marknorayspam@noev1spam.net >:
>"John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net> wrote in message
>>
>> The posts can get pretty stuck on there, especially if it is a
>> really old keg since it's had lots of time to sit around with
>> soda residue in it. I have one of those pin-lock deep
>> sockets. However, a couple times I've had to put it on a
>> breaker bar and hit the whole thing with a hammer in order to
>> get the post to come off. They will unscrew counter
>> clockwise. Don't be afraid of putting a lot of force on them.
>Have you (or anybody) considered using teflon tape when
>reinstalling the posts? If used properly none will get in your
>beer and it should come off much easier when it's time for
>cleaning.
This shouldn't be necessary, if the posts aren't over-tightened.
On my kegs, the posts turn easily, until they bottom out, metal
on metal. That's when I stop torqueing. I think the seal
depends on the rubber washer under the dip tube, not on jamming
the post on.
Just don't Schwarzenneger it, and there shouldn't be a problem
with stuck posts.
Scott S
--
Scott Sellers
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Date: 08 Sep 2006 14:51:10
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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On Thu, 07 Sep 2006 21:21:32 GMT, <scottsellers@mindspring.com > wrote:
> This shouldn't be necessary, if the posts aren't over-tightened.
> On my kegs, the posts turn easily, until they bottom out, metal
> on metal. That's when I stop torqueing. I think the seal
> depends on the rubber washer under the dip tube, not on jamming
> the post on.
>
> Just don't Schwarzenneger it, and there shouldn't be a problem
> with stuck posts.
Agreed. Usually I only need to use a hammer to get the posts off if it's
a newly aquired keg. After that, as long as you don't over tighten it, you
should be fine with just a wrench.
John.
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Date: 08 Sep 2006 11:54:55
From: Dan Logcher
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote:
> On Thu, 07 Sep 2006 21:21:32 GMT, <scottsellers@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>>This shouldn't be necessary, if the posts aren't over-tightened.
>>On my kegs, the posts turn easily, until they bottom out, metal
>>on metal. That's when I stop torqueing. I think the seal
>>depends on the rubber washer under the dip tube, not on jamming
>>the post on.
>>
>>Just don't Schwarzenneger it, and there shouldn't be a problem
>>with stuck posts.
>
>
> Agreed. Usually I only need to use a hammer to get the posts off if it's
> a newly aquired keg. After that, as long as you don't over tighten it, you
> should be fine with just a wrench.
I bought a keg online and couldn't get the gas-in (12 point) off.
I had to use a vice-wrench and a neighbor to get it off, and killed
the post. I hate those 12 point posts.
--
Dan
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Date: 09 Sep 2006 16:51:13
From: Pete
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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Something I have not seen mentioned is a good soaking in hot(ALMOST
BOILING) water. Just invert the keg with the lid removed in a pot of
hot water and let it soak for a while. Worked for me!
On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 11:54:55 -0400, Dan Logcher
<dlogcher*xspam*@comcast.net > wrote:
>John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote:
>> On Thu, 07 Sep 2006 21:21:32 GMT, <scottsellers@mindspring.com> wrote:
>>
>>>This shouldn't be necessary, if the posts aren't over-tightened.
>>>On my kegs, the posts turn easily, until they bottom out, metal
>>>on metal. That's when I stop torqueing. I think the seal
>>>depends on the rubber washer under the dip tube, not on jamming
>>>the post on.
>>>
>>>Just don't Schwarzenneger it, and there shouldn't be a problem
>>>with stuck posts.
>>
>>
>> Agreed. Usually I only need to use a hammer to get the posts off if it's
>> a newly aquired keg. After that, as long as you don't over tighten it, you
>> should be fine with just a wrench.
>
>I bought a keg online and couldn't get the gas-in (12 point) off.
>I had to use a vice-wrench and a neighbor to get it off, and killed
>the post. I hate those 12 point posts.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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Date: 09 Sep 2006 18:30:30
From: Dan Logcher
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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Pete wrote:
> Something I have not seen mentioned is a good soaking in hot(ALMOST
> BOILING) water. Just invert the keg with the lid removed in a pot of
> hot water and let it soak for a while. Worked for me!
Yeah, I did try that.. I first clean the keg on the outside and inside
before dismastling and cleaning the fittings. I had this one upside
down in a bucket for an hour or so while I cleaned the bottom and sides.
It was so stuck I had to ruin the points with the vice grip plyers.
--
Dan
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Date: 05 Sep 2006 20:30:03
From: Bob
Subject: Re: keg dismantling woes/CO2 tanke question
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<sheheryarhasnain@hotmail.com > wrote in message
news:1157334921.926275.70240@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
> Hi
> My father in law gave me an old soda pin lock keg and a pretty large
> CO2 tank -- The keg is worn on the outside but seems totally great on
> the inside. From instructions I have read, it is important to
> dismantle all parts prior to use -- for cleaning purposes. Now I cant
> get the connector points (or what are the parts with the pins on them
> that connect to the gas and diptube?) off. Midwest has a deep set
> socket that it sells for around $20 -- is this the sort of tool that I
> need to get these buggers off. I have one of those wrenches that I can
> tighten and turn and it fits pretty snug but still will refuse to
> unscrew -- I am turning counter clockwise (but frankly it wont budge
> either direction). Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Tap the end of the wrench the correct direction with a hammer while
applying force the same direction. Make sure the wrench is adjusted
to be as snug as possible.
Bob
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