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Main
Date: 04 Nov 2006 15:30:01
From: Curt E.
Subject: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
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If I were to need to raise the temp of my mash in my cooler mashtun to
mash-out temp prior to sparging, could I just drain a few liters of runnings
and heat/boil those runnings and add it back to the tun to increase temp
(sort of like a decoction but with runnings instead of grist)? I would like
to raise the temp of the mash without adding any direct heat or water volume
to it. I want to be able to mash a heavier gravity 10 gal size batch in my
10 gal cooler mashtun which is short on capacity and I am trying to get all
that I can out of it by not having to add water to add heat for mash-out
prior to sparging.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Curt E.
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Date: 05 Nov 2006 03:31:47
From:
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
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: Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I use something similar to this:
http://hbd.org/pcalinsk/HeatStk3.htm
The only difference is that I bought the highest 240V element I could find (5500W), but I only run it on 120V. That way
it's got 4x the surface area necessary to put the approx 1400W into the liquid than is necessary for plain water. I also did not
spread the elements as he suggests.
With that setup, I'm able to raise the temperature in my cooler mashtun between 1-2 degrees per minute for a normal (12
lbs grain, 3.5 gallons water) beer. Raising to mashout from 150 to 170 takes about 10-15 minutes with one element.
-Cory
--
*************************************************************************
* Cory Papenfuss, Ph.D., PPSEL-IA *
* Electrical Engineering *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
*************************************************************************
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Date: 04 Nov 2006 16:23:56
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional
|
Curt E. wrote:
> If I were to need to raise the temp of my mash in my cooler mashtun to
> mash-out temp prior to sparging, could I just drain a few liters of runnings
> and heat/boil those runnings and add it back to the tun to increase temp
> (sort of like a decoction but with runnings instead of grist)? I would like
> to raise the temp of the mash without adding any direct heat or water volume
> to it. I want to be able to mash a heavier gravity 10 gal size batch in my
> 10 gal cooler mashtun which is short on capacity and I am trying to get all
> that I can out of it by not having to add water to add heat for mash-out
> prior to sparging.
>
Or you could just not mashout.
--
(Replies: cleanse my address of the Mark of the Beast!)
Teleoperate a roving mobile robot from the web:
http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html
Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
Buy several copies today!
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Date: 04 Nov 2006 11:09:41
From: Dave
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
Since all your conversion would be done by then, why not treat it like
a decoction and take about 30% of the volume of your tun with enough
liquid to cover it, heat it to boiling and add it back to the tun.
I've also used a coil in my HLT, and circulated mash tun liquid through
the coil then back to the mash tun to raise the temp.
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Date: 04 Nov 2006 11:09:24
From: Dave
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
Since all your conversion would be done by then, why not treat it like
a decoction and take about 30% of the volume of your tun with enough
liquid to cover it, heat it to boiling and add it back to the tun.
I've also used a coil in my HLT, and circulated mash tun liquid through
the coil then back to the mash tun to raise the temp.
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Date: 05 Nov 2006 19:39:44
From: Curt E.
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
thanks to all that replied...all good info.
"Curt E." <ebner1111@sbcglobal.net > wrote in message
news:Zl23h.4380$7F3.1502@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com...
> If I were to need to raise the temp of my mash in my cooler mashtun to
> mash-out temp prior to sparging, could I just drain a few liters of
> runnings and heat/boil those runnings and add it back to the tun to
> increase temp (sort of like a decoction but with runnings instead of
> grist)? I would like to raise the temp of the mash without adding any
> direct heat or water volume to it. I want to be able to mash a heavier
> gravity 10 gal size batch in my 10 gal cooler mashtun which is short on
> capacity and I am trying to get all that I can out of it by not having to
> add water to add heat for mash-out prior to sparging.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Curt E.
>
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Date: 06 Nov 2006 09:52:04
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional
|
"Curt E." wrote:
>
> If I were to need to raise the temp of my mash in my cooler mashtun to
> mash-out temp prior to sparging, could I just drain a few liters of runnings
> and heat/boil those runnings and add it back to the tun to increase temp
> (sort of like a decoction but with runnings instead of grist)? I would like
> to raise the temp of the mash without adding any direct heat or water volume
> to it. I want to be able to mash a heavier gravity 10 gal size batch in my
> 10 gal cooler mashtun which is short on capacity and I am trying to get all
> that I can out of it by not having to add water to add heat for mash-out
> prior to sparging.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'd either a) not do a mashout or b) add boiling water to adjust the
temp.
----------- >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
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Date: 06 Nov 2006 17:05:13
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
On Sat, 04 Nov 2006 15:30:01 GMT, <ebner1111@sbcglobal.net > wrote:
> If I were to need to raise the temp of my mash in my cooler mashtun to
> mash-out temp prior to sparging, could I just drain a few liters of runnings
> and heat/boil those runnings and add it back to the tun to increase temp
> (sort of like a decoction but with runnings instead of grist)? I would like
> to raise the temp of the mash without adding any direct heat or water volume
> to it. I want to be able to mash a heavier gravity 10 gal size batch in my
> 10 gal cooler mashtun which is short on capacity and I am trying to get all
> that I can out of it by not having to add water to add heat for mash-out
> prior to sparging.
Yes, you should be able to do it that way. Although you may not really need
to worry about it, a mash-out is optional anyway. I'll usually skip the
mash-out when I'm maxing out the capacity of my mash tun.
John.
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| | |
Date: 09 Nov 2006 15:09:19
From: Chris Szajna
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
This raises a question I have been meaning to ask.
I recently tried my hand at an all grain oatmeal stout using a 5 gallon
Rubbermaid cooler. After adding the strike water to the grain the mashtun
was pretty well maxed out. In the interest of time (i.e. laziness) and from
everything I read, I decided that I would batch sparge (which means I
started off with about 10% more grain anyway). The problem was that the
sparge called for 2x as much strike water. That meant I actually had to
batch sparge twice. Everything appeared OK and it has been in secondary for
a few weeks.
Might I see some problems with the end result by doing this?
I have been reading Palmers most recent release and he indicates that you
can sparge multiple times as long as the pH doesn't get too low so as to
extract tannins.
Cheers,
Chris
"John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net > wrote in message
news:slrnekur31.5f0.spam@weizen.shagg.net...
> On Sat, 04 Nov 2006 15:30:01 GMT, <ebner1111@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> If I were to need to raise the temp of my mash in my cooler mashtun to
>> mash-out temp prior to sparging, could I just drain a few liters of
>> runnings
>> and heat/boil those runnings and add it back to the tun to increase temp
>> (sort of like a decoction but with runnings instead of grist)? I would
>> like
>> to raise the temp of the mash without adding any direct heat or water
>> volume
>> to it. I want to be able to mash a heavier gravity 10 gal size batch in
>> my
>> 10 gal cooler mashtun which is short on capacity and I am trying to get
>> all
>> that I can out of it by not having to add water to add heat for mash-out
>> prior to sparging.
>
> Yes, you should be able to do it that way. Although you may not really
> need
> to worry about it, a mash-out is optional anyway. I'll usually skip the
> mash-out when I'm maxing out the capacity of my mash tun.
>
>
> John.
>
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Date: 09 Nov 2006 20:39:50
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
Chris Szajna <szajna.spam@taylorstown.net > wrote:
> This raises a question I have been meaning to ask.
>
> I recently tried my hand at an all grain oatmeal stout using a 5 gallon
> Rubbermaid cooler. After adding the strike water to the grain the mashtun
> was pretty well maxed out. In the interest of time (i.e. laziness) and from
> everything I read, I decided that I would batch sparge (which means I
> started off with about 10% more grain anyway). The problem was that the
> sparge called for 2x as much strike water. That meant I actually had to
> batch sparge twice. Everything appeared OK and it has been in secondary for
> a few weeks.
>
> Might I see some problems with the end result by doing this?
>
> I have been reading Palmers most recent release and he indicates that you
> can sparge multiple times as long as the pH doesn't get too low so as to
> extract tannins.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chris
<snip >
I mash in a 5 gal Rubbermaid too and always run multiple
sparges. You'll be fine, but if it's a very low gravity beer (like a
mild) watch the gravity of your runoff - if it hits 1.010, kill the
sparge. As I understand it.
-----------------------------------------------
John Bleichert syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!
|
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Date: 09 Nov 2006 20:51:28
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
On Thu, 09 Nov 2006 20:39:50 GMT, <syborg@earthlink.net > wrote:
> I mash in a 5 gal Rubbermaid too and always run multiple
> sparges. You'll be fine, but if it's a very low gravity beer (like a
> mild) watch the gravity of your runoff - if it hits 1.010, kill the
> sparge. As I understand it.
Agreed, I think oversparging is only a real concern with very low OG
batches. Other than that, I don't even worry about it. In fact, I
typically don't even bother to check the gravity of my runnings on
most beers, I just collect my volume and then stop.
It's common to see experienced brewers say that they used to monitor
the SG during the sparge, realized it was a non-issue after a couple
beers, and don't bother anymore (except for low OG beers).
Other than that, yeah, 1.010 (temp corrected) is the "rule of thumb" number
for when to stop. It's not really the gravity that causes the issue, but
generally when you reach 1.010 the pH starts to become a problem. Most
people just don't want the hassle of measuring the pH directly during the
sparge. SG readings are easier to deal with.
John.
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Date: 09 Nov 2006 20:56:02
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
John 'Shaggy' Kolesar <spam@shagg.net > wrote:
> On Thu, 09 Nov 2006 20:39:50 GMT, <syborg@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> I mash in a 5 gal Rubbermaid too and always run multiple
>> sparges. You'll be fine, but if it's a very low gravity beer (like a
>> mild) watch the gravity of your runoff - if it hits 1.010, kill the
>> sparge. As I understand it.
>
> Agreed, I think oversparging is only a real concern with very low OG
> batches. Other than that, I don't even worry about it. In fact, I
> typically don't even bother to check the gravity of my runnings on
> most beers, I just collect my volume and then stop.
>
> It's common to see experienced brewers say that they used to monitor
> the SG during the sparge, realized it was a non-issue after a couple
> beers, and don't bother anymore (except for low OG beers).
>
> Other than that, yeah, 1.010 (temp corrected) is the "rule of thumb" number
> for when to stop. It's not really the gravity that causes the issue, but
> generally when you reach 1.010 the pH starts to become a problem. Most
> people just don't want the hassle of measuring the pH directly during the
> sparge. SG readings are easier to deal with.
>
>
> John.
Yeah I've only watched my run-off gravity when making my
mild. Otherwise I never even bother.
-----------------------------------------------
John Bleichert syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!
|
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Date: 09 Nov 2006 19:58:35
From: Chris Szajna
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
"John Bleichert" <syborg@earthlink.net > wrote in message
news:CBM4h.4523$l25.553@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> John 'Shaggy' Kolesar <spam@shagg.net> wrote:
>> On Thu, 09 Nov 2006 20:39:50 GMT, <syborg@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>> I mash in a 5 gal Rubbermaid too and always run multiple
>>> sparges. You'll be fine, but if it's a very low gravity beer (like a
>>> mild) watch the gravity of your runoff - if it hits 1.010, kill the
>>> sparge. As I understand it.
>>
>> Agreed, I think oversparging is only a real concern with very low OG
>> batches. Other than that, I don't even worry about it. In fact, I
>> typically don't even bother to check the gravity of my runnings on
>> most beers, I just collect my volume and then stop.
>>
>> It's common to see experienced brewers say that they used to monitor
>> the SG during the sparge, realized it was a non-issue after a couple
>> beers, and don't bother anymore (except for low OG beers).
>>
>> Other than that, yeah, 1.010 (temp corrected) is the "rule of thumb"
>> number
>> for when to stop. It's not really the gravity that causes the issue, but
>> generally when you reach 1.010 the pH starts to become a problem. Most
>> people just don't want the hassle of measuring the pH directly during the
>> sparge. SG readings are easier to deal with.
>>
>>
>> John.
>
> Yeah I've only watched my run-off gravity when making my
> mild. Otherwise I never even bother.
>
Great.
Thanks all.
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| | | |
Date: 09 Nov 2006 20:17:19
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
On Thu, 9 Nov 2006 15:09:19 -0500, <szajna.spam@taylorstown.net > wrote:
> This raises a question I have been meaning to ask.
>
> I recently tried my hand at an all grain oatmeal stout using a 5 gallon
> Rubbermaid cooler. After adding the strike water to the grain the mashtun
> was pretty well maxed out. In the interest of time (i.e. laziness) and from
> everything I read, I decided that I would batch sparge (which means I
> started off with about 10% more grain anyway). The problem was that the
> sparge called for 2x as much strike water. That meant I actually had to
> batch sparge twice. Everything appeared OK and it has been in secondary for
> a few weeks.
>
> Might I see some problems with the end result by doing this?
>
> I have been reading Palmers most recent release and he indicates that you
> can sparge multiple times as long as the pH doesn't get too low so as to
> extract tannins.
I think most batch spargers do multiple batches. I think you'd have to do
a lot more than 2 in order to worry about tannins. But it really depends
on the amount of grain you have and the size of each batch. It doesn't
sound like you have anything to worry about though.
John.
|
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Date: 10 Nov 2006 08:56:49
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional
|
John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote:
> I think most batch spargers do multiple batches. I think you'd have to do
> a lot more than 2 in order to worry about tannins. But it really depends
> on the amount of grain you have and the size of each batch. It doesn't
> sound like you have anything to worry about though.
Boy, almost NONE of the batch spargers I know do multiple sparges.
Almost every one has a cooler large enough so that's not necessary. I
know that I almost never do more than one with my 48 qt. cooler.
-------- >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
|
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Date: 10 Nov 2006 17:51:55
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
Denny Conn <denny.g.conn@ci.eugene.or.us > wrote:
> John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote:
>
>> I think most batch spargers do multiple batches. I think you'd have to do
>> a lot more than 2 in order to worry about tannins. But it really depends
>> on the amount of grain you have and the size of each batch. It doesn't
>> sound like you have anything to worry about though.
>
> Boy, almost NONE of the batch spargers I know do multiple sparges.
> Almost every one has a cooler large enough so that's not necessary. I
> know that I almost never do more than one with my 48 qt. cooler.
>
> -------->Denny
In a 5 gallon cooler multiple sparges seems unavoidable. I can't think
of any reasons for one sparge versus (say) 3 to make any qualitative
difference in the resulting beer. Are there any?
-----------------------------------------------
John Bleichert syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!
|
| | | | | | |
Date: 11 Nov 2006 05:47:57
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
On Fri, 10 Nov 2006 17:51:55 GMT, <syborg@earthlink.net > wrote:
> Denny Conn <denny.g.conn@ci.eugene.or.us> wrote:
>> John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote:
>>
>>> I think most batch spargers do multiple batches. I think you'd have to do
>>> a lot more than 2 in order to worry about tannins. But it really depends
>>> on the amount of grain you have and the size of each batch. It doesn't
>>> sound like you have anything to worry about though.
>>
>> Boy, almost NONE of the batch spargers I know do multiple sparges.
>> Almost every one has a cooler large enough so that's not necessary. I
>> know that I almost never do more than one with my 48 qt. cooler.
>>
>> -------->Denny
>
> In a 5 gallon cooler multiple sparges seems unavoidable. I can't think
> of any reasons for one sparge versus (say) 3 to make any qualitative
> difference in the resulting beer. Are there any?
Theoretically, a really high number of really small batches will be
more efficient. However, in reality it probably doesn't make a significant
difference.
John.
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Date: 10 Nov 2006 10:34:34
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional
|
John Bleichert wrote:
> In a 5 gallon cooler multiple sparges seems unavoidable. I can't think
> of any reasons for one sparge versus (say) 3 to make any qualitative
> difference in the resulting beer. Are there any?
I don't think with 3 sparges you're going to see any difference. But
it's hard to pin it down to a specific number. I can say, though, that
getting a bigger cooler would save you a bunch of work!
------------- >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
|
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Date: 10 Nov 2006 19:20:36
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
|
Denny Conn <denny.g.conn@ci.eugene.or.us > wrote:
> John Bleichert wrote:
>
>> In a 5 gallon cooler multiple sparges seems unavoidable. I can't think
>> of any reasons for one sparge versus (say) 3 to make any qualitative
>> difference in the resulting beer. Are there any?
>
> I don't think with 3 sparges you're going to see any difference. But
> it's hard to pin it down to a specific number. I can say, though, that
> getting a bigger cooler would save you a bunch of work!
>
Yeah. It's kinda inevitable. It's nearly impossible to do a bigger
beer (beyond say 1.066) in a 5 gallon cooler. I need a second income
in the house before I can get any more equipment ;-)
-----------------------------------------------
John Bleichert syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!
|
| | | | | |
Date: 10 Nov 2006 17:04:16
From: Joel
Subject: Batch sparging (was: heating up a cooler mashtun...)
|
Denny Conn <denny.g.conn@ci.eugene.or.us > wrote:
>Boy, almost NONE of the batch spargers I know do multiple sparges.
>Almost every one has a cooler large enough so that's not necessary. I
>know that I almost never do more than one with my 48 qt. cooler.
To clarify, does that mean you recirculate, drain, add
water, recirculate, drain?
I'm thinking of giving batch sparging another shot next
time I brew (probably the Saturday after Thanksgiving;
probably a Celis Grand Cru homage).
--
Joel Plutchak
"Things just fall apart." - Now They'll Sleep (Belly)
|
| | | | | | |
Date: 10 Nov 2006 09:13:55
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: Batch sparging (was: heating up a cooler mashtun...)water???
|
Joel wrote:
> To clarify, does that mean you recirculate, drain, add
> water, recirculate, drain?
Yep, exactly
> I'm thinking of giving batch sparging another shot next
> time I brew (probably the Saturday after Thanksgiving;
> probably a Celis Grand Cru homage).
YUM! Great beer! Let me know how it goes for you.
---------- >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
|
| | | | | | | |
Date: 10 Nov 2006 13:47:51
From: Chris Szajna
Subject: Re: Batch sparging (was: heating up a cooler mashtun...)water???
|
"Denny Conn" <denny.g.conn@ci.eugene.or.us > wrote in message
news:4554B353.20BE3E3E@ci.eugene.or.us...
> Joel wrote:
>
>> To clarify, does that mean you recirculate, drain, add
>> water, recirculate, drain?
>
> Yep, exactly
>
>> I'm thinking of giving batch sparging another shot next
>> time I brew (probably the Saturday after Thanksgiving;
>> probably a Celis Grand Cru homage).
>
> YUM! Great beer! Let me know how it goes for you.
>
> ---------->Denny
>
> --
> Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
Not to be picky but isn't it
recirculate, drain, add water, mix, (some may rest, others don't),
recirculate, drain?
Only reason I ask is because (being new to AG) I am curious if the mixing
makes much of a difference.
Cheers,
Chris
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| | | | | | | | |
Date: 10 Nov 2006 12:54:53
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: Batch sparging
|
Chris Szajna wrote:
> "Denny Conn" <denny.g.conn@ci.eugene.or.us> wrote in message
> news:4554B353.20BE3E3E@ci.eugene.or.us...
>> Joel wrote:
>>
>>> To clarify, does that mean you recirculate, drain, add
>>> water, recirculate, drain?
>> Yep, exactly
>>
>>> I'm thinking of giving batch sparging another shot next
>>> time I brew (probably the Saturday after Thanksgiving;
>>> probably a Celis Grand Cru homage).
>> YUM! Great beer! Let me know how it goes for you.
>>
>> ---------->Denny
>>
>> --
>> Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
>
> Not to be picky but isn't it
> recirculate, drain, add water, mix, (some may rest, others don't),
> recirculate, drain?
>
> Only reason I ask is because (being new to AG) I am curious if the mixing
> makes much of a difference.
>
I don't mix and get 80% or better. I do rest 10 minutes after adding the
batch water. I saw no measurable efficiency difference between mixing
and not mixing so I stopped mixing -- obviously, ymmv.
--
(Replies: cleanse my address of the Mark of the Beast!)
Teleoperate a roving mobile robot from the web:
http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html
Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
Buy several copies today!
|
| | | | | | | | | |
Date: 10 Nov 2006 11:00:58
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: Batch sparging
|
The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty wrote:
> I don't mix and get 80% or better. I do rest 10 minutes after adding the
> batch water. I saw no measurable efficiency difference between mixing
> and not mixing so I stopped mixing -- obviously, ymmv.
Yeah, but you're superhuman! I tried the no mix after you mentioned it,
and saw a drop in my efficiency of about 5 points. Assuming that the
drop is really attributable to not mixing...but that was the only thing
I changed.
--------- >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
|
| | | | | | | | | | |
Date: 10 Nov 2006 13:21:15
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: Batch sparging
|
Denny Conn wrote:
> The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty wrote:
>
>> I don't mix and get 80% or better. I do rest 10 minutes after adding the
>> batch water. I saw no measurable efficiency difference between mixing
>> and not mixing so I stopped mixing -- obviously, ymmv.
>
> Yeah, but you're superhuman! I tried the no mix after you mentioned it,
> and saw a drop in my efficiency of about 5 points. Assuming that the
> drop is really attributable to not mixing...but that was the only thing
> I changed.
>
Well, obviously I'm superhuman -- but I do a 10-15 minute rest after
adding the sparge water, and I recirculate prior to the second runnof,
neither of which (as I recall, anyway) you do.
And of course, maybe geometry plays a role -- I use a cylindrical
cooler. It may be that the water addition agitates the mash more than a
rectangular shallow cooler? Dunno -- just guessing
On another note, the Danstar guy posted to the HBD for comments
regarding Nottingham and Windsor. We might all reply with our
experiences, but drop some hints that it might be a good idea for them
to carry a quality lager yeast in dried form. I know I already have.
--
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http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html
Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
Buy several copies today!
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Date: 13 Nov 2006 10:21:42
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: Batch sparging
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The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty wrote:
> Well, obviously I'm superhuman -- but I do a 10-15 minute rest after
> adding the sparge water, and I recirculate prior to the second runnof,
> neither of which (as I recall, anyway) you do.
Don't do the rest anymore (since conversion is complete), but I do the
vorlauf. Only 1-2 qt., though.
> And of course, maybe geometry plays a role -- I use a cylindrical
> cooler. It may be that the water addition agitates the mash more than a
> rectangular shallow cooler? Dunno -- just guessing
Reasonable guess....
> On another note, the Danstar guy posted to the HBD for comments
> regarding Nottingham and Windsor. We might all reply with our
> experiences, but drop some hints that it might be a good idea for them
> to carry a quality lager yeast in dried form. I know I already have.
I saw that, but I hate Windsor and couldn't think of all that much good
to say about Nott!
------------ >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
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Date: 13 Nov 2006 12:51:37
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: Batch sparging
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Denny Conn wrote:
>
> I saw that, but I hate Windsor and couldn't think of all that much good
> to say about Nott!
Just lie -- tell them you love it. Then drop the lager yeast suggestion.
I've really only used Nottingham a few times -- seems to get pretty
fruity at higher gravities -- at least in the one big ale I used it in.
Fermented at 60F, but the SG of the wort was well over 1.100. Worked out
for the style, though (strong old ale).
--
(Replies: cleanse my address of the Mark of the Beast!)
Teleoperate a roving mobile robot from the web:
http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html
Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
Buy several copies today!
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Date: 11 Nov 2006 05:46:16
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional water???
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On Fri, 10 Nov 2006 08:56:49 -0800, <denny.g.conn@ci.eugene.or.us > wrote:
> John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote:
>
>> I think most batch spargers do multiple batches. I think you'd have to do
>> a lot more than 2 in order to worry about tannins. But it really depends
>> on the amount of grain you have and the size of each batch. It doesn't
>> sound like you have anything to worry about though.
>
> Boy, almost NONE of the batch spargers I know do multiple sparges.
Depends on how you count the batches. ;)
Either way, I don't think doing 2 is anything to worry about.
John.
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Date: 10 Nov 2006 12:41:27
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: heating up a cooler mashtun without adding direct heat or aditional
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Denny Conn wrote:
> John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote:
>
>> I think most batch spargers do multiple batches. I think you'd have to do
>> a lot more than 2 in order to worry about tannins. But it really depends
>> on the amount of grain you have and the size of each batch. It doesn't
>> sound like you have anything to worry about though.
>
> Boy, almost NONE of the batch spargers I know do multiple sparges.
> Almost every one has a cooler large enough so that's not necessary. I
> know that I almost never do more than one with my 48 qt. cooler.
>
Yep -- basically a 5 gallon cooler is really too small for a 5 gallon
batch of standard gravity. Obviously, you can make a 5-gallon work, but
I'd go at least 10. I never need to sparge in multiple batches, even for
beers exceeding 1.100.
--
(Replies: cleanse my address of the Mark of the Beast!)
Teleoperate a roving mobile robot from the web:
http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html
Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
Buy several copies today!
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