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Date: 02 Dec 2006 09:45:58
From: 2fatbbq
Subject: grain mill question


been thinking of getting a grain mill--there is such a variety--is there a
consensus onwhich would suffice for a homebrewer doing maybe a batch/month??
Budget isn't a big a concern as value!


--
Buzz
2fat Bikers bbq






 
Date: 02 Dec 2006 08:21:05
From: Matt
Subject: Re: grain mill question


I just got a crankandstein a few days ago for 150.00 shipped. Haven't
had a chance to try it yet, but I have a feeling that if I threw this
thing off a 7 story building, it would survive no problem. Very solid
piece of equipment.



  
Date: 04 Dec 2006 10:24:12
From: MattMika
Subject: Re: grain mill question


On 2 Dec 2006 08:21:05 -0800, "Matt" <djembefola24@yahoo.com > wrote:

>I just got a crankandstein a few days ago for 150.00 shipped. Haven't
>had a chance to try it yet, but I have a feeling that if I threw this
>thing off a 7 story building, it would survive no problem. Very solid
>piece of equipment.

I too got a crankandstein a month or so back. It is solidly built and
performs well.

I got the CGM-2A, a 5" long, 2-roller knob adjustable gap drill drive
for $112 S&H included. I built my own hopper, it holds 10lbs of grain.
They have one that holds 7lbs.

Matt Mika

"These animals evacuate ethyl alcohol from their bowels and carbon dioxide from their urinary organs. Thus, one can observe how a specially lighter fluid is exuded from the anus and rises vertically whereas a stream of carbon dioxide is ejected at very short intervals from enormously long genitales."

Justus Freiherr von Liebig - 1839


 
Date: 02 Dec 2006 10:16:19
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: grain mill question


2fatbbq wrote:
> been thinking of getting a grain mill--there is such a variety--is there a
> consensus onwhich would suffice for a homebrewer doing maybe a batch/month??
> Budget isn't a big a concern as value!
>
>

Almost all of them. I have a non-adjustable MaltMill and have been happy
with it. The BarleyCrusher is also a nice mill, and seems like a good value.

The only issue I've had with the MaltMill was that I had to replace the
original wooden base; it comes with a particle board base that won't
stand up to storage in humid environments for very long. I just cut
another one out of plywood and it works fine.

The BarleyCrusher has the advantage of coming with a larger hopper, but
I think it's only a 5 pound hopper (although you can get a bigger one).
I use a 5-gallon bucket with a hole in the bottom for my MaltMill --
holds a lot of grain.

--
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Buy several copies today!


 
Date: 04 Dec 2006 20:51:18
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: grain mill question


On Sat, 2 Dec 2006 09:45:58 -0600, <2fatbbq@gmail.com > wrote:
> been thinking of getting a grain mill--there is such a variety--is there a
> consensus onwhich would suffice for a homebrewer doing maybe a batch/month??
> Budget isn't a big a concern as value!

Most of the main brands of roller mills designed for homebrewers are all
good products. You rarely hear of anyone complaining about the mill they
got. I'd avoid the ones that aren't specially designed for homebrew
though, like kitchen aid attachments, etc.


John.


 
Date: 05 Dec 2006 14:39:10
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: grain mill question


2fatbbq <2fatbbq@gmail.com > wrote:
> been thinking of getting a grain mill--there is such a variety--is there a
> consensus onwhich would suffice for a homebrewer doing maybe a batch/month??
> Budget isn't a big a concern as value!
>
>

I bought an original Phil Mill I about 9 months ago and it's worked
well. I think it was $75 or thereabouts. Hand-cranked, can be a bit of
a workout with a 15 lb. grain bill but hey there's nothing wrong with
exercise ;-)

-----------------------------------------------
John Bleichert syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!


  
Date: 05 Dec 2006 15:07:51
From: Steve Kranz
Subject: Re: grain mill question


John Bleichert wrote:
> I bought an original Phil Mill I about 9 months ago and it's worked
> well. I think it was $75 or thereabouts. Hand-cranked, can be a bit of
> a workout with a 15 lb. grain bill but hey there's nothing wrong with
> exercise ;-)

Replacing the hand-crank with a shoulder bolt (cut off the head with a
hack saw) will make it a drill-driven mill...or buy the adapter from one
of various homebrew sellers. Driving that same mill with a drill will
run through that same 15 lbs of grain in a couple of minutes without any
workout required.

I use a 14.4 volt cordless DeWalt drill. (Good idea to have a second
fully charged battery available depending on how much grain you have to
crush.) It drives the mill like a champ, and the crush is still
excellent at high speed. Been doing this for about 7-8 years with the
same Phil Mill, and it's still going strong. Using the cordless makes
it really easy to set the mill up out on the deck and avoid any of the
dust inside. Plus, I use it to brew while camping or at someone's house
without having to worry about mixing electricity and water.

--
Steve Kranz
Homebrewer extraordinaire, banjo player mediocaire
Visit the Midnight Homebrewers' League on the web at:
http://users.adelphia.net/~smkranz


   
Date: 05 Dec 2006 20:22:48
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: grain mill question


Steve Kranz <"smkranz[at]adelphia.net" > wrote:
> John Bleichert wrote:
> > I bought an original Phil Mill I about 9 months ago and it's worked
>> well. I think it was $75 or thereabouts. Hand-cranked, can be a bit of
>> a workout with a 15 lb. grain bill but hey there's nothing wrong with
>> exercise ;-)
>
> Replacing the hand-crank with a shoulder bolt (cut off the head with a
> hack saw) will make it a drill-driven mill...or buy the adapter from one
> of various homebrew sellers. Driving that same mill with a drill will
> run through that same 15 lbs of grain in a couple of minutes without any
> workout required.
>
> I use a 14.4 volt cordless DeWalt drill. (Good idea to have a second
> fully charged battery available depending on how much grain you have to
> crush.) It drives the mill like a champ, and the crush is still
> excellent at high speed. Been doing this for about 7-8 years with the
> same Phil Mill, and it's still going strong. Using the cordless makes
> it really easy to set the mill up out on the deck and avoid any of the
> dust inside. Plus, I use it to brew while camping or at someone's house
> without having to worry about mixing electricity and water.
>

Yes - I've been thinking of re-fitting it to be driven by one of my
drills. Haven't gotten around to it yet. Thanks for the suggestion
though - I just bumped it up on the drawing board a bit.

-----------------------------------------------
John Bleichert syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!


   
Date: 06 Dec 2006 10:11:04
From: Carter Cathey
Subject: Re: grain mill question


I tried to use my drill on my mill and it burned up the drill motor. Now,
it was a 20-year-old drill so maybe it was just its time. I have been
hesitant to try it again with my new drill, however.

I just unscrewed my handle and put the crank post in the drill. Is there
something else I should do or is it that easy?

Carter

"Steve Kranz" <"smkranz[at]adelphia.net" > wrote in message
news:2PmdnUyav5AJTOjYnZ2dnUVZ_qKdnZ2d@adelphia.com...
> John Bleichert wrote:
> > I bought an original Phil Mill I about 9 months ago and it's worked
>> well. I think it was $75 or thereabouts. Hand-cranked, can be a bit of
>> a workout with a 15 lb. grain bill but hey there's nothing wrong with
>> exercise ;-)
>
> Replacing the hand-crank with a shoulder bolt (cut off the head with a
> hack saw) will make it a drill-driven mill...or buy the adapter from one
> of various homebrew sellers. Driving that same mill with a drill will run
> through that same 15 lbs of grain in a couple of minutes without any
> workout required.
>
> I use a 14.4 volt cordless DeWalt drill. (Good idea to have a second
> fully charged battery available depending on how much grain you have to
> crush.) It drives the mill like a champ, and the crush is still excellent
> at high speed. Been doing this for about 7-8 years with the same Phil
> Mill, and it's still going strong. Using the cordless makes it really
> easy to set the mill up out on the deck and avoid any of the dust inside.
> Plus, I use it to brew while camping or at someone's house without having
> to worry about mixing electricity and water.
>
> --
> Steve Kranz
> Homebrewer extraordinaire, banjo player mediocaire
> Visit the Midnight Homebrewers' League on the web at:
> http://users.adelphia.net/~smkranz




    
Date: 06 Dec 2006 10:20:56
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: grain mill question


Carter Cathey wrote:
> I tried to use my drill on my mill and it burned up the drill motor. Now,
> it was a 20-year-old drill so maybe it was just its time. I have been
> hesitant to try it again with my new drill, however.

Probably your drill -- I've been using the same drill for 10 years with
my mill.

--
(Replies: cleanse my address of the Mark of the Beast!)

Teleoperate a roving mobile robot from the web:
http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html

Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
Buy several copies today!


    
Date: 06 Dec 2006 19:45:45
From: jason
Subject: Re: grain mill question


Carter Cathey wrote:
> I tried to use my drill on my mill and it burned up the drill motor. Now,
> it was a 20-year-old drill so maybe it was just its time. I have been
> hesitant to try it again with my new drill, however.
>
> I just unscrewed my handle and put the crank post in the drill. Is there
> something else I should do or is it that easy?
>
> Carter


It's your drill I suspect more then anything else. I recently burned out
the 3/8" one that was using to grind grain and upgraded to a 1/2" and
haven't had any problems at all.


     
Date: 06 Dec 2006 20:05:42
From: Joel
Subject: Re: grain mill question


jason <me@invalid.address.net > wrote:
>Carter Cathey wrote:
>> I tried to use my drill on my mill and it burned up the drill motor. Now,
>> it was a 20-year-old drill so maybe it was just its time. I have been
>> hesitant to try it again with my new drill, however.
>>
>> I just unscrewed my handle and put the crank post in the drill. Is there
>> something else I should do or is it that easy?
>
>It's your drill I suspect more then anything else. I recently burned out
>the 3/8" one that was using to grind grain and upgraded to a 1/2" and
>haven't had any problems at all.

Yeah, I have an industrial-quality 1/2-inch drill that
I use for milling, and it doesn't have a problem cranking
through up to 40 pounds of grain. Doesn't even warm that
sucker up.
--
Joel Plutchak

"Things just fall apart." - Now They'll Sleep (Belly)


    
Date: 06 Dec 2006 18:41:27
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: grain mill question


On Wed, 6 Dec 2006 10:11:04 -0600, <cartercathey@comcast.net > wrote:
> I tried to use my drill on my mill and it burned up the drill motor. Now,
> it was a 20-year-old drill so maybe it was just its time. I have been
> hesitant to try it again with my new drill, however.

Might just have been the drill you were using. Running a mill like that
takes a lot of torque, which is what overheats the motor. I believe 1/2"
drills generally do better since they tend to also have stronger motors
in them.

Maybe with your older mill you were just putting more stress on it than
it was capable of handling after already having 20 years worth of wear and
tear on it.

> I just unscrewed my handle and put the crank post in the drill. Is there
> something else I should do or is it that easy?

That should be it.


John.


 
Date: 06 Dec 2006 12:21:10
From:
Subject: Re: grain mill question




> Replacing the hand-crank with a shoulder bolt (cut off the head with a
> hack saw) will make it a drill-driven mill...or buy the adapter from one
> of various homebrew sellers. <snip>

Are all of the std brewing mills easy to drive with
a drill? I was thinking about a BarlyCrusher in
particular but it would be good feature to know
about any of them.

Don



  
Date: 06 Dec 2006 20:34:24
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: grain mill question


On 6 Dec 2006 12:21:10 -0800, <dshesnicky@yahoo.com > wrote:
>
>
>> Replacing the hand-crank with a shoulder bolt (cut off the head with a
>> hack saw) will make it a drill-driven mill...or buy the adapter from one
>> of various homebrew sellers. <snip>
>
> Are all of the std brewing mills easy to drive with
> a drill? I was thinking about a BarlyCrusher in
> particular but it would be good feature to know
> about any of them.

My guess would be that it's pretty similar for the different mills. The
basic design is pretty common between them.


John.


  
Date: 06 Dec 2006 14:31:47
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: grain mill question


dshesnicky@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> Replacing the hand-crank with a shoulder bolt (cut off the head with a
>> hack saw) will make it a drill-driven mill...or buy the adapter from one
>> of various homebrew sellers. <snip>
>
> Are all of the std brewing mills easy to drive with
> a drill? I was thinking about a BarlyCrusher in
> particular but it would be good feature to know
> about any of them.

Don't know about ALL of them, but I from personal experience I know the
BarleyCrusher and the MaltMill can be driven by drill.

--
(Replies: cleanse my address of the Mark of the Beast!)

Teleoperate a roving mobile robot from the web:
http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html

Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
Buy several copies today!