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Main
Date: 22 Nov 2006 14:04:49
From:
Subject: beer characteristics page?
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Anyone know of a good online source to to look up
the chacterisitcs of a type of beer and what typical
hops and malts would be used in creating them.
I was searching for a scottish ale recipe and was
coming across ingredients such as german hops
which didn't seem quite right.
Don
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Date: 22 Nov 2006 18:09:57
From:
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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> Try the BJCP style guidelines: http://www.bjcp.org/styles04/
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
> Take a bit of the first runnings and boil them down to
> concentrate and then add it back to the rest of the wort.
Is this to produce the caramelization flavours?
Don
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Date: 27 Nov 2006 09:55:00
From:
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
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> Sorry -- I was too lazy to go back and check the earlier postings
> carefully. I'd still plug cooler temps, though -- I think you'll be a
> lot happier with the results.
I think that's going to be my major change with
the next batch - cooler fermentation. Nottingham
is good down to 57F so I'll shoot for ~65F.
> Nottingham should be great for a British ale, but if you're looking for
> really clean (which you may not be) US-56 can't be beat.
I have very limited choices so it's pretty much
gotta be Nottingham while I get my 3 gal technique
down pat. Then I may move to larger batches
and go a bit upscale on the yeast.
Thanks for all the pointers.
Don
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Date: 27 Nov 2006 19:34:53
From: Derric
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
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>> ... I'd still plug cooler temps, though -- I think you'll be a
>> lot happier with the results.
>
> I think that's going to be my major change with
> the next batch - cooler fermentation. Nottingham
> is good down to 57F so I'll shoot for ~65F.
I think you'll see your off taste go away if you control your temp. I
also saw some tartness in pale ales done with Nottingham at higher
basement temps (say, 75F+??). With an ice-water bath, holding in the
60s, that tartness went away.
Derric
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Date: 22 Nov 2006 16:06:14
From:
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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Try the BJCP style guidelines: http://www.bjcp.org/styles04/
For a Scottish 80/- try a pale ale malt like Marris Otter or Golden
Promise maybe a bit of caramel and a touch of roast barley. Take a bit
of the first runnings and boil them down to concentrate and then add it
back to the rest of the wort. English hops to your desired IBU and
ferment with your fav scottish ale yeast.
Hope that helps.
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Date: 23 Nov 2006 09:45:55
From:
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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> I was only regurgetating what I've heard/read. I guess some munich
> couldn't hurt, depends how traditional/authentic you're trying to be.
I thought about this a bit and I think I'm carrying the
authenticity too far. Right now I'm trying to brew a good
all grain with my 3 gallon batch method. This will be
my AG 4th brew. The others were ok but my wife who is
a bit picky on beer but drinks everything from Guiness
to Corona does not like my home brew. There's an off
taste somewhere in it.
Previously I was trying to do something like a British
mild. Now I figure I'd head for something a bit more
robust that might mask whatever I was doing wrong.
I figured something like an scottish or old ale. Doing
some research was where the german hops showed
up and that led me to research the style as a guide
to where I was heading.
So... I think maybe some concentration of wort and
crystal with Fuggles/Goldings and Danstar Nottingham
yeast (since it's one of 3 in my local store).
Or is there a good basic recipe that I should get
down pat first , something infinitely drinkable and
low on hops? Crystal with 2-Row and Goldings perhaps.
Don
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Date: 23 Nov 2006 09:26:59
From: MarkMc
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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sorry > What about munich malt although I hate to say it because
> of my original post where I "complained" about german hops?
Not sure, I've run out of talent here as I've never made a Scotch Ale
(Scottish and Scotch are actually different styles AFAIK).
I was only regurgetating what I've heard/read. I guess some munich
couldn't hurt, depends how traditional/authentic you're trying to be.
I don't think they had Munich in Scotland way back when!
I think you need a good British pale malt, that will make a huge
difference - IIRC Golden Promise is the authentic Scottish pale malt.
Maris Otter is the top of the range English pale which is probably
easier to get.
Then I'd guess crystal malt(s), mash fairly high. Hopefully somebody
more experienced with the style(s) can chime in here with a typical
recipe with authentic ingredients.
The key is probably in the yeast - it needs to be a fairly low
attenuator as Scotch ales finish quite sweet and are biased towards
malty rather than hoppy.
Good hops to use are typical British varieties, Goldings, Fuggles and
perhaps Challenger.
I hope this is of use and I haven't been talking rubbish.
Cheers,
Mark
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Date: 23 Nov 2006 08:21:40
From:
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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> > > Take a bit of the first runnings and boil them down to
> > > concentrate and then add it back to the rest of the wort.
> >
> > Is this to produce the caramelization flavours?
>
> Sorry to jump in, but there hasn't been a reply for a while.
The more the merrier.
> The other is to use more crystal type malts, mash higher etc - I
> suspect this is what happens in Scotland commercially these days. Try
> both ways and see which you prefer!
What about munich malt although I hate to say it because
of my original post where I "complained" about german hops?
Don
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Date: 23 Nov 2006 04:45:42
From: MarkMc
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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> > Take a bit of the first runnings and boil them down to
> > concentrate and then add it back to the rest of the wort.
>
> Is this to produce the caramelization flavours?
Sorry to jump in, but there hasn't been a reply for a while.
Yes, I beleive that's right. There are two schools of thought on how
to obtain the mailtiness/body for a scotch ale. One is to boil for a
long time or boil the first runnings to get caremalisation.
The other is to use more crystal type malts, mash higher etc - I
suspect this is what happens in Scotland commercially these days. Try
both ways and see which you prefer!
Cheers,
Mark
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Date: 23 Nov 2006 18:05:44
From:
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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> If you want to stick with the Scottish/Scotch ale style, I would try to
> get some Scottish ale yeast from Wyeast or Whitelabs...
My local shop does have some liquid yeasts but
they're selling for around $6. I've said to myself that
I should be using the dry yeasts while I experiment
and there are only 3 ale yeasts - the Danstar
Nottingham, a generic Muttons and a Coopers.
The Danstar seemed the most main stream and
I found it listed in beer tools like beertools.com
so I've been using it.
Do you think the Nottingham's might have given
my AG a different taste in some way then my wife
and I are used to?
Don
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Date: 24 Nov 2006 23:50:57
From: Scott Sellers
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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dshesnicky@yahoo.com <dshesnicky@yahoo.com >:
>> If you want to stick with the Scottish/Scotch ale style, I
>> would try to get some Scottish ale yeast from Wyeast or
>> Whitelabs...
>My local shop does have some liquid yeasts but they're selling
>for around $6. I've said to myself that I should be using the
>dry yeasts while I experiment and there are only 3 ale yeasts -
>the Danstar Nottingham, a generic Muttons and a Coopers. The
>Danstar seemed the most main stream and I found it listed in
>beer tools like beertools.com so I've been using it.
>Do you think the Nottingham's might have given
>my AG a different taste in some way then my wife
>and I are used to?
FWIW, Nottingham is my house yeast - to this point, pretty much a
constant across many allgrain batches of several British styles.
My early brews often had slightly funky notes -- never enough to
toss one, just sometimes not entirely satisfactory.
As I've worked the kinks out of my brewing process, only recently
am I starting to get the "clean" beers Nottingham is noted for --
to the point that the dry stout and ESB's I have on tap right now
are far and away the best I've made in each style.
I figure once I get consistently clean beers with a neutral
yeast, then my process will have been pretty much ironed out.
Now as I begin to experiment with more complex yeasts, I'll know
the different tastes aren't down to newbie brewing glitches.
I hope this makes sense. I'd say, no, it's not the Nottingham
making your beer taste "off". I'd focus more on things like
temperature control throughout the entire process, cleanliness,
timing, water quality, ingredient quality, etc.
Just my $.02.
cheers,
Scott S
--
Scott Sellers
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Date: 23 Nov 2006 12:45:46
From:
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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dshesnicky@yahoo.com wrote:
> So... I think maybe some concentration of wort and
> crystal with Fuggles/Goldings and Danstar Nottingham
> yeast (since it's one of 3 in my local store).
Sure - If you're worried about over-complicating things, forget the
wort caramelization and just go with your pale malt and crystal grist.
Fuggles/Goldings would make a great English ESB. Do you have any other
selections for yeast? Nottingham will make good beer, but it's very
clean and very attenuative - not really in the British style.
If you want to stick with the Scottish/Scotch ale style, I would try to
get some Scottish ale yeast from Wyeast or Whitelabs...
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Date: 24 Nov 2006 08:21:12
From:
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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dshesnicky@yahoo.com wrote:
> Do you think the Nottingham's might have given
> my AG a different taste in some way then my wife
> and I are used to?
Maybe... generally Nottingham is neutral, but under certain
circumstances any yeast can throw funny flavours. If your homebrew
store has a good selection, maybe try a strain that looks interesting.
I'm sure you can get good results from any of the English-style strains
that Wyeast or Whitelabs carry.
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Date: 25 Nov 2006 04:29:25
From:
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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> I hope this makes sense. I'd say, no, it's not the Nottingham
> making your beer taste "off". I'd focus more on things like
> temperature control throughout the entire process, cleanliness,
> timing, water quality, ingredient quality, etc.
I think I agree. There are alot of variables in ag brewing
and getting a basic recipe down pat is where I'm trying
to head. I'm using 3 gallon recipes for this reason and
because I can work the whole process with my oven
and a batch sparge system I made. I'd like to stick
with dry yeasts because they're relatively cheap
compared to the $6 wet yeasts.
My reason for going to the scottish brew was that my
first 3 attempts at something like a British Mild had
that off taste. I'm thinking that something stronger
with more of a full characteristic will mask the off taste.
Time to record the whole process and post it here
for comments.
These are the dry yeasts I have access to, didn't know
that Muntons and Coopers only produced a single
strain. From an hbd.org page on yeast:
Coopers
Crisp and slightly fruity. Very flocculent.
Danstar Nottingham
One of the cleanest (if not the cleanest) dry yeast currently
on the market. Also known to be fairly alcohol tolerant; a
lot of people use it for Barleywines.
Muntons
This is the yeast I used for my first few batches of homebrew,
and occasionally thereafter. It is very reliable, and a fast
fermenter -- the legendary volcanic, "2 day flash ferment" is
not uncommon with this yeast. Not as clean as Danstar
Nottingham; lots of banana ester if fermented too warm.
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Date: 25 Nov 2006 19:22:38
From: Scott Sellers
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
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dshesnicky@yahoo.com <dshesnicky@yahoo.com >:
>> I hope this makes sense. I'd say, no, it's not the Nottingham
>> making your beer taste "off". I'd focus more on things like
>> temperature control throughout the entire process,
>> cleanliness, timing, water quality, ingredient quality, etc.
>I think I agree. There are alot of variables in ag brewing and
>getting a basic recipe down pat is where I'm trying to head. I'm
>using 3 gallon recipes for this reason and because I can work
>the whole process with my oven and a batch sparge system I made.
>I'd like to stick with dry yeasts because they're relatively
>cheap compared to the $6 wet yeasts.
>My reason for going to the scottish brew was that my first 3
>attempts at something like a British Mild had that off taste.
>I'm thinking that something stronger with more of a full
>characteristic will mask the off taste.
Sounds like a good plan. In truth, I haven't made a good mild
yet. That seems like a tough one -- nowhere to hide. Mine tend
to come out tart, which might be down to the Nottingham
(according to some research here, and my own experience). I
can't say for sure without trying another yeast on a mild. I
haven't, since my inclination has been to give them a rest.
My best brew is probably a 1.060-ish ESB, a little on the
toasty/hoppy/crystally side. That one's been good and getting
better for awhile.
>Time to record the whole process and post it here
>for comments.
>These are the dry yeasts I have access to, didn't know
>that Muntons and Coopers only produced a single
>strain. From an hbd.org page on yeast:
>Coopers
>Crisp and slightly fruity. Very flocculent.
>Danstar Nottingham
>One of the cleanest (if not the cleanest) dry yeast currently
>on the market. Also known to be fairly alcohol tolerant; a
>lot of people use it for Barleywines.
>Muntons
>This is the yeast I used for my first few batches of homebrew,
>and occasionally thereafter. It is very reliable, and a fast
>fermenter -- the legendary volcanic, "2 day flash ferment" is
>not uncommon with this yeast. Not as clean as Danstar
>Nottingham; lots of banana ester if fermented too warm.
You might also look for the Fermentis Safale and Safebrew
products. If not local, they're available online, and come
recommended around rcb. I recently ordered 12 packs online,
which I'm going to dig into starting next weekend. Along with
more Nottingham for the tried and true arsenal.
But again, I think the road to better brew is getting comfortable
with your overall process and technique, which comes with
learning and repetition.
cheers,
Scott S
--
Scott Sellers
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Date: 26 Nov 2006 07:08:13
From:
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
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> My best brew is probably a 1.060-ish ESB, a little on the
> toasty/hoppy/crystally side. That one's been good and getting
> better for awhile.
2-Row plus Crystal as desired for target, 155 F mash,
170 F sparge (batch in my case), 60 min boil with hops
as desired, and Danstar Nottingham?
Don
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Date: 26 Nov 2006 18:43:21
From: Scott Sellers
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
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dshesnicky@yahoo.com <dshesnicky@yahoo.com >:
>> My best brew is probably a 1.060-ish ESB, a little on the
>> toasty/hoppy/crystally side. That one's been good and getting
>> better for awhile.
>2-Row plus Crystal as desired for target, 155 F mash, 170 F
>sparge (batch in my case), 60 min boil with hops as desired, and
>Danstar Nottingham?
Sounds good to me. For a bitter, I'd bring the mash temp down a
little. For a scottish ale, probably not.
Other things to think about:
After the boil, chill as quickly as possible.
Control the fermentation temperature. I like to start in the low
60Fs, then let it rise into the mid 60s.
Make sure you have an accurate thermometer. For my first half
dozen brews, I was using a thermometer that read low by 3-4
degrees. This on top of a mash target of 154-156F. For the
longest time, I couldn't figure out why all my brews were too
sweet.
cheers,
Scott
--
Scott Sellers
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Date: 26 Nov 2006 11:45:14
From:
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
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> >2-Row plus Crystal as desired for target, 155 F mash, 170 F
> >sparge (batch in my case), 60 min boil with hops as desired, and
> >Danstar Nottingham?
>
> Sounds good to me. For a bitter, I'd bring the mash temp down a
> little. For a scottish ale, probably not.
Pretty much a mute point I would think unless your
trying for a style. I chose 155 as the midpoint in the
standard mash temperature range to give as much
leeway both up and down as possible.
> After the boil, chill as quickly as possible.
This is my weak point at this time, I'm using ice
around the boiling pot in the sink.
> Control the fermentation temperature. I like to start in the low
> 60Fs, then let it rise into the mid 60s.
For an ale this should be fairly mute. I've read of
British companies using 70-80 F.
> Make sure you have an accurate thermometer. For my first half
> dozen brews, I was using a thermometer that read low by 3-4
> degrees.
I picked up a candy thermometer and calibrated
against boiling water.
> This on top of a mash target of 154-156F. For the
> longest time, I couldn't figure out why all my brews were too
> sweet.
It really has that much of an effect? I thought the mash
temperature would have the desired affect on sweetness
but it would be very slight.
Thanks for all of the replies btw.
Don
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Date: 26 Nov 2006 17:27:59
From: David M. Taylor
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
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<dshesnicky@yahoo.com > wrote in message
news:1164570314.011693.241720@14g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
>> "Scott Sellers" <scottsellers@mindspring.com> wrote in message
>> news:dflah.3472
>> $sf5.3295@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
>> Sounds good to me. For a bitter, I'd bring the mash temp down a
>> little. For a scottish ale, probably not.
>
> Pretty much a mute point I would think unless your
> trying for a style. I chose 155 as the midpoint in the
> standard mash temperature range to give as much
> leeway both up and down as possible.
I think 155 F is a tiny bit on the high side. If you want mid-point, go for
about 153 F instead. Not that 2 degrees makes a world of a difference, but
just in case you care to get anal about it.
>> After the boil, chill as quickly as possible.
>
> This is my weak point at this time, I'm using ice
> around the boiling pot in the sink.
That works for me, I do the same thing.
>> Control the fermentation temperature. I like to start in the low
>> 60Fs, then let it rise into the mid 60s.
>
> For an ale this should be fairly mute. I've read of
> British companies using 70-80 F.
Don't exceed 70 F unless you enjoy getting headaches from your homebrew.
Higher temperatures produce fusel alcohols, leading to jet-fuel flavors and
nasty headaches.
>> Make sure you have an accurate thermometer. For my first half
>> dozen brews, I was using a thermometer that read low by 3-4
>> degrees.
>
> I picked up a candy thermometer and calibrated
> against boiling water.
That might work.
>> This on top of a mash target of 154-156F. For the
>> longest time, I couldn't figure out why all my brews were too
>> sweet.
>
> It really has that much of an effect? I thought the mash
> temperature would have the desired affect on sweetness
> but it would be very slight.
Based on my experience thus far, I would agree that mash temperature is
really not a huge effect. I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you end
up with sweetness problems later on, then you can worry, but otherwise, ah
who cares.
--
Dave
"Fill your cup with whatever bitter brew you're drinking." -- Brad Paisley
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Date: 26 Nov 2006 19:13:03
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
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David M. Taylor wrote:
> <dshesnicky@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1164570314.011693.241720@14g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
>>> "Scott Sellers" <scottsellers@mindspring.com> wrote in message
>>> news:dflah.3472
>>> $sf5.3295@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>>> Sounds good to me. For a bitter, I'd bring the mash temp down a
>>> little. For a scottish ale, probably not.
>> Pretty much a mute point I would think unless your
>> trying for a style. I chose 155 as the midpoint in the
>> standard mash temperature range to give as much
>> leeway both up and down as possible.
>
> I think 155 F is a tiny bit on the high side. If you want mid-point, go for
> about 153 F instead. Not that 2 degrees makes a world of a difference, but
> just in case you care to get anal about it.
>
>>> After the boil, chill as quickly as possible.
>> This is my weak point at this time, I'm using ice
>> around the boiling pot in the sink.
>
> That works for me, I do the same thing.
>
>>> Control the fermentation temperature. I like to start in the low
>>> 60Fs, then let it rise into the mid 60s.
>> For an ale this should be fairly mute. I've read of
>> British companies using 70-80 F.
>
> Don't exceed 70 F unless you enjoy getting headaches from your homebrew.
> Higher temperatures produce fusel alcohols, leading to jet-fuel flavors and
> nasty headaches.
>
>>> Make sure you have an accurate thermometer. For my first half
>>> dozen brews, I was using a thermometer that read low by 3-4
>>> degrees.
>> I picked up a candy thermometer and calibrated
>> against boiling water.
>
> That might work.
>
>>> This on top of a mash target of 154-156F. For the
>>> longest time, I couldn't figure out why all my brews were too
>>> sweet.
>> It really has that much of an effect? I thought the mash
>> temperature would have the desired affect on sweetness
>> but it would be very slight.
>
> Based on my experience thus far, I would agree that mash temperature is
> really not a huge effect. I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you end
> up with sweetness problems later on, then you can worry, but otherwise, ah
> who cares.
>
Mash temperature has a tremendous effect on attenuation, but not
necessarily sweetness. Beers that are less attenuated because of greater
dextrin content are somewhat sweeter than more attenuated beers, but
personally, I don't really find that the sweetness is particularly
noticeable unless the gravity of the beer is fairly high -- I assume
this is because dextrins don't really have that much "sweetening power".
Instead, I find that the beer just feels fuller.
--
(Replies: cleanse my address of the Mark of the Beast!)
Teleoperate a roving mobile robot from the web:
http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html
Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
Buy several copies today!
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Date: 26 Nov 2006 16:08:35
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
|
dshesnicky@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>> 2-Row plus Crystal as desired for target, 155 F mash, 170 F
>>> sparge (batch in my case), 60 min boil with hops as desired, and
>>> Danstar Nottingham?
>> Sounds good to me. For a bitter, I'd bring the mash temp down a
>> little. For a scottish ale, probably not.
>
> Pretty much a mute point I would think unless your
> trying for a style. I chose 155 as the midpoint in the
> standard mash temperature range to give as much
> leeway both up and down as possible.
>
>> After the boil, chill as quickly as possible.
>
> This is my weak point at this time, I'm using ice
> around the boiling pot in the sink.
>
>> Control the fermentation temperature. I like to start in the low
>> 60Fs, then let it rise into the mid 60s.
>
> For an ale this should be fairly mute. I've read of
> British companies using 70-80 F.
Which companies? 70-80F is unusual for most British styles AFAIK, and I
believe unheard of for Scottish styles. These temps are more common for
Belgian styles -- but this isn't what you'll be shooting for at all in a
scottish ale. You're shooting for clean and malty here, which means
plenty of clean-fermenting yeast and relatively low fermentation temps.
I'd also avoid Nottingham for a Scottish ale -- US-56 (also dry and easy
to find) will probably yield better results. Shoot for a fermentation
temp in the low 60s. I assume you're not doing a wee-heavy, in which
case, you'll REALLY want to avoid Nottingham.
(Not to be a dick, but it's "moot", not "mute". I was an editor in
another life...)
Hope that helps -- m
--
(Replies: cleanse my address of the Mark of the Beast!)
Teleoperate a roving mobile robot from the web:
http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html
Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
Buy several copies today!
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Date: 27 Nov 2006 20:13:00
From: Scott Sellers
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
|
dshesnicky@yahoo.com <dshesnicky@yahoo.com >:
I wrote:
[...]
>> Sounds good to me. For a bitter, I'd bring the mash temp down
>> a little. For a scottish ale, probably not.
>Pretty much a mute point I would think unless your
>trying for a style. I chose 155 as the midpoint in the
>standard mash temperature range to give as much
>leeway both up and down as possible.
Fair enough. If your find your beers are under-attenuated,
reduce mash temp. IME, 155F is a little high for "standard" mash
temp. I'd shoot more for 152F.
[...]
>> This on top of a mash target of 154-156F. For the longest
>> time, I couldn't figure out why all my brews were too sweet.
>It really has that much of an effect? I thought the mash
>temperature would have the desired affect on sweetness
>but it would be very slight.
IME, the difference between, say, 150F and 158F is a big deal,
both in terms of sweetness, and in terms of where final gravity
will end up.
cheers,
Scott S
--
Scott Sellers
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Date: 27 Nov 2006 10:31:35
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: beer characteristics page?
|
dshesnicky@yahoo.com wrote:
> Do you think the Nottingham's might have given
> my AG a different taste in some way then my wife
> and I are used to?
Not impossible...I find Nottingham has a tartness to it that I don't
really care for.
-------- >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
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Date: 27 Nov 2006 06:31:08
From:
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
|
> Which companies? 70-80F is unusual for most British styles AFAIK, and I
> believe unheard of for Scottish styles.
It was a small book by CAMRA and was talking about
how fast some of the real ales were made and deliverd
to the pubs. I'm working off memory here but it seems
like that may be part of my technique that I need to
change. Move it down under 70.
> I'd also avoid Nottingham for a Scottish ale -- US-56 (also dry and easy
> to find) will probably yield better results. Shoot for a fermentation
> temp in the low 60s. I assume you're not doing a wee-heavy, in which
> case, you'll REALLY want to avoid Nottingham.
As mentioned a couple of posts back I've moved
away from the Scottish recipe and am just trying to
do a bit heavier beer to mask the off flavour I saw
in my last three AG brews. Now I'm heading to the
Basic "Get it Right" All Grain as the subject change
mentions.
> (Not to be a dick, but it's "moot", not "mute". I was an editor in
> another life...)
Right you are, I was typing fast as my little guy
was due to wake up from his nap.
Don
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Date: 27 Nov 2006 08:47:06
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: Basic "Get it Right" AG (was beer characteristics page?)
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dshesnicky@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> Which companies? 70-80F is unusual for most British styles AFAIK, and I
>> believe unheard of for Scottish styles.
>
> It was a small book by CAMRA and was talking about
> how fast some of the real ales were made and deliverd
> to the pubs. I'm working off memory here but it seems
> like that may be part of my technique that I need to
> change. Move it down under 70.
>
>
>> I'd also avoid Nottingham for a Scottish ale -- US-56 (also dry and easy
>> to find) will probably yield better results. Shoot for a fermentation
>> temp in the low 60s. I assume you're not doing a wee-heavy, in which
>> case, you'll REALLY want to avoid Nottingham.
>
> As mentioned a couple of posts back I've moved
> away from the Scottish recipe and am just trying to
> do a bit heavier beer to mask the off flavour I saw
> in my last three AG brews. Now I'm heading to the
> Basic "Get it Right" All Grain as the subject change
> mentions.
Sorry -- I was too lazy to go back and check the earlier postings
carefully. I'd still plug cooler temps, though -- I think you'll be a
lot happier with the results.
Nottingham should be great for a British ale, but if you're looking for
really clean (which you may not be) US-56 can't be beat.
Good luck -- m
--
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