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Date: 21 Jun 2006 18:52:32
From: John Bleichert
Subject: batch sparge end question
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Hello All
I've been going back and forth on my crush (too fine, to coarse) but
I'm getting close to correct with it. The question is, how do I know
when the batch sparge is done? When the wort coming out of the tun is
at 1.010?
Put another way, if I'm trying to get 6.5 gallons of wort out of (say)
10 lbs of grain, I know it's possible to go "too far" and start
flushing tannins into the kettle (yes?) - how do the batch sparge
folks here know when to stop sparging and top off with water if
unfortunately necessary? My last mash was with grain crushed to coarse
and I ran out of gravity before I had enough wort in the kettle...
Just curious. Still learning how to "drive".
Thanks - JB
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John Bleichert syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!
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Date: 21 Jun 2006 19:06:52
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question
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On Wed, 21 Jun 2006 18:52:32 GMT, <syborg@earthlink.net > wrote:
> Hello All
>
> I've been going back and forth on my crush (too fine, to coarse) but
> I'm getting close to correct with it. The question is, how do I know
> when the batch sparge is done? When the wort coming out of the tun is
> at 1.010?
IMO, for most beers the sparge is done when you have collected your target
pre-boil volume.
> Put another way, if I'm trying to get 6.5 gallons of wort out of (say)
> 10 lbs of grain, I know it's possible to go "too far" and start
> flushing tannins into the kettle (yes?
Theoretically. However, unless you are making a fairly low OG beer then
you're probably not going to have this problem. You can monitor your
runoff SG if you want to, but I expect you'll find that it's not a
problem once you get your crush dialed in.
John.
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Date: 22 Jun 2006 07:40:31
From: Thomas T. Veldhouse
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question
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John Bleichert <syborg@earthlink.net > wrote:
> Hello All
>
> I've been going back and forth on my crush (too fine, to coarse) but
> I'm getting close to correct with it. The question is, how do I know
> when the batch sparge is done? When the wort coming out of the tun is
> at 1.010?
>
You know when you have collected enough volume. For most beers, the typical
batch sparge is a two sparge session where each sparge rewards you with half
the total volume of your wort. Optimal is to split the two batches as evenly
as possible.
--
Thomas T. Veldhouse
Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
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Date: 22 Jun 2006 16:51:22
From: JS
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question
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On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 07:40:31 -0500, "Thomas T. Veldhouse"
<veldy71@yahoo.com > wrote:
>>
>
>You know when you have collected enough volume. For most beers, the typical
>batch sparge is a two sparge session where each sparge rewards you with half
>the total volume of your wort. Optimal is to split the two batches as evenly
>as possible.
>
If the AG brew is going to be very high in OG, I find that much more
water is collected in the initial batch than 1/2 boil volume. Seems
some adjustment is required depending grain bill.
--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
------- >>>>>>http://www.NewsDemon.com<<<<<<------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access
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Date: 22 Jun 2006 19:24:49
From: Scott Sellers
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question
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Thomas T. Veldhouse <veldy71@yahoo.com >:
>John Bleichert <syborg@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> Hello All
>>
>> I've been going back and forth on my crush (too fine, to
>> coarse) but I'm getting close to correct with it. The question
>> is, how do I know when the batch sparge is done? When the wort
>> coming out of the tun is at 1.010?
>>
>You know when you have collected enough volume. For most beers,
>the typical batch sparge is a two sparge session where each
>sparge rewards you with half the total volume of your wort.
>Optimal is to split the two batches as evenly as possible.
>
Yes. Also, when batch sparging, the tun is completely drained
for each batch. At least that's the way I learned. If you know
how much water the grain absorbs, it's easy to dial in the amount
of water to add to get the exact amount of wort you want.
Also, the gravity should remain the same throughout each batch.
1.010 seems kind of low. If the OP is getting a final batch that
low, it could be remedied by doing fewer/larger batches to get
the same amount of wort.
Scott S
--
Scott Sellers
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Date: 22 Jun 2006 15:27:03
From: Thomas T. Veldhouse
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question
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Scott Sellers <scottsellers@mindspring.com > wrote:
>
> Yes. Also, when batch sparging, the tun is completely drained
> for each batch. At least that's the way I learned. If you know
> how much water the grain absorbs, it's easy to dial in the amount
> of water to add to get the exact amount of wort you want.
>
> Also, the gravity should remain the same throughout each batch.
> 1.010 seems kind of low. If the OP is getting a final batch that
> low, it could be remedied by doing fewer/larger batches to get
> the same amount of wort.
>
The 1.010 is the minimum gravity indicated for "fly sparging" where you want
to cut off the sparge to avoid the leaching of tanins from the barley husks.
--
Thomas T. Veldhouse
Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1
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Date: 22 Jun 2006 20:07:55
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question
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Scott Sellers <scottsellers@mindspring.com > wrote:
> Thomas T. Veldhouse <veldy71@yahoo.com>:
>
>
>>John Bleichert <syborg@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>> Hello All
>>>
>>> I've been going back and forth on my crush (too fine, to
>>> coarse) but I'm getting close to correct with it. The question
>>> is, how do I know when the batch sparge is done? When the wort
>>> coming out of the tun is at 1.010?
>>>
>
>>You know when you have collected enough volume. For most beers,
>>the typical batch sparge is a two sparge session where each
>>sparge rewards you with half the total volume of your wort.
>>Optimal is to split the two batches as evenly as possible.
>>
>
> Yes. Also, when batch sparging, the tun is completely drained
> for each batch. At least that's the way I learned. If you know
> how much water the grain absorbs, it's easy to dial in the amount
> of water to add to get the exact amount of wort you want.
>
> Also, the gravity should remain the same throughout each batch.
> 1.010 seems kind of low. If the OP is getting a final batch that
> low, it could be remedied by doing fewer/larger batches to get
> the same amount of wort.
>
> Scott S
>
Nope, I haven't hit 1.010 so far, I've just seen that particular
"floor" number bounced around in r.c.b a few times.
Sounds like I'll be OK once I get my crush right. Hopefully with the
next brew.
JB
-----------------------------------------------
John Bleichert syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!
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Date: 22 Jun 2006 20:30:48
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question
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On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 20:07:55 GMT, <syborg@earthlink.net > wrote:
> Nope, I haven't hit 1.010 so far, I've just seen that particular
> "floor" number bounced around in r.c.b a few times.
That rule of thumb is more in the context of fly sparging.
John.
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Date: 25 Jun 2006 13:17:42
From: stencil
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question -and crushing
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On Wed, 21 Jun 2006 18:52:32 GMT, John Bleichert <syborg@earthlink.net > =
wrote:
>Hello All
>
>I've been going back and forth on my crush (too fine, to coarse) but
>I'm getting close to correct with it.=20
Try doing both. If you do a pass at a nip of 0.080" and then again at =
0.065"
I think you'll find that the first crush loosens and often separates the
complete husks. These often slip intact through the second pass, which =
will
reduce the pearls to a coarse flour. The (relatively) intact husks =
greatly
improve the filtering action of the bed.
=46or setting the nip I use bare solid copper wire; AWG12 for the coarse=
and
AWG14 for the fine. If you're in the metric world these are 2.05mm and =
1.63mm
diameters.
stencil sends
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Date: 26 Jun 2006 17:19:15
From: John Bleichert
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question -and crushing
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stencil <etcs.ret@verizon.net > wrote:
> On Wed, 21 Jun 2006 18:52:32 GMT, John Bleichert <syborg@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>Hello All
>>
>>I've been going back and forth on my crush (too fine, to coarse) but
>>I'm getting close to correct with it.
>
> Try doing both. If you do a pass at a nip of 0.080" and then again at 0.065"
> I think you'll find that the first crush loosens and often separates the
> complete husks. These often slip intact through the second pass, which will
> reduce the pearls to a coarse flour. The (relatively) intact husks greatly
> improve the filtering action of the bed.
> For setting the nip I use bare solid copper wire; AWG12 for the coarse and
> AWG14 for the fine. If you're in the metric world these are 2.05mm and 1.63mm
> diameters.
>
> stencil sends
Hmm. Never thought of checking my mill settings with specific-gauge
wire! I have both 12 and 14 in my workshop, I'll check it when I get
home. Never thought of running the grain through twice. Is this
common?
-----------------------------------------------
John Bleichert syborg@earthlink.net
The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!
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Date: 26 Jun 2006 22:47:43
From: Wayne
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question -and crushing
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John Bleichert wrote:
> Hmm. Never thought of checking my mill settings with specific-gauge
> wire! I have both 12 and 14 in my workshop, I'll check it when I get
> home. Never thought of running the grain through twice. Is this
> common?
Whenever I get a new batch of base grains, I carefully check the crush
and make any necessary adjustments to my mill. I then leave it alone.
When I get ready to run other grains through, I visually check to see
the relative size of the grain to the base grain for which my gap is
set. If it is significantly smaller, wheat is the most common culprit,
I simply run it through twice rather than having to mess with setting
the gap for that grain and then reseting it for everything else. For
wheat I don't even bother looking, I just plan on double crushing as a
routine matter.
Wayne
Bugeater Brewing Company
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Date: 26 Jun 2006 17:54:27
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: batch sparge end question -and crushing
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On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 17:19:15 GMT, <syborg@earthlink.net > wrote:
> Hmm. Never thought of checking my mill settings with specific-gauge
> wire! I have both 12 and 14 in my workshop, I'll check it when I get
> home. Never thought of running the grain through twice. Is this
> common?
Regarding running it through twice, that's how professional mills work. They
have multiple sets of rollers and the grain will pass through several of them
on it's way through the mill. You can simulate this by running your grains
through your single roller mill twice and changing the gap, but IMO it's
probably unnecessary. For commercial breweries that make thousands of
gallons of beer, squeezing a point or two in efficiency out of their grains
will make a huge financial difference. For homebrewers, it isn't really
worth it. A couple percentage points is probably the equivalent of a
handful of grain.
IMO, you want to crush it as fine as you can until you get to the point of
having stuck sparges or astringency. Most people tend to undercrush their
grains, which will cause their efficiency to suffer.
John.
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