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Date: 18 Oct 2006 16:26:15
From: Jim
Subject: Yeast Recommendation
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What are your thoughts on these two recipes? 6# Light DME 1# Crystal 8oz Malto Dextrin Galena Hops Willamete Hops Fuggle Hops Crystal Hops 63 Wheat DME 1/2# Light DME (I have 1# to use) Northern Brewer Hops (Whatever that is) I can swap this too Feedback is appreciated. Jim
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Date: 18 Oct 2006 20:11:24
From: alebrewer
Subject: Re: Yeast Recommendation
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As for yeast recommendation, if you are inclined to use 1056 or wlp001, you should really consider a quality dry yeast, such as Nottingham, which is very clean and attenuative, or SafeAle US56 (which is supposedly the same strain as 1056). No need for a starter, no need to aerate, and if rehydrated properly, will start quicker than a 2 liter starter that took 3 days to grow. Much cheaper, to boot. ab
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Date: 19 Oct 2006 15:12:13
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Yeast Recommendation
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On 18 2006 20:11:24 -0700, <alebrewer@wt.net > wrote: > As for yeast recommendation, if you are inclined to use 1056 or wlp001, > you should really consider a quality dry yeast, such as Nottingham, > which is very clean and attenuative, or SafeAle US56 (which is > supposedly the same strain as 1056). > > No need for a starter, no need to aerate, and if rehydrated properly, > will start quicker than a 2 liter starter that took 3 days to grow. > > Much cheaper, to boot. I definitely agree about the dry yeast idea except that I would still aerate and skip the rehydration. John.
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Date: 20 Oct 2006 03:13:10
From: Steve/Aus
Subject: Re: Yeast Recommendation
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"John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net > wrote in message news:slrnejf5m6.nit.spam@weizen.shagg.net... > On 18 2006 20:11:24 -0700, <alebrewer@wt.net> wrote: >> As for yeast recommendation, if you are inclined to use 1056 or wlp001, >> you should really consider a quality dry yeast, such as Nottingham, >> which is very clean and attenuative, or SafeAle US56 (which is >> supposedly the same strain as 1056). >> >> No need for a starter, no need to aerate, and if rehydrated properly, >> will start quicker than a 2 liter starter that took 3 days to grow. >> >> Much cheaper, to boot. > > I definitely agree about the dry yeast idea except that I would still > aerate > and skip the rehydration. > From Danstar's website regarding the use of Nottingham. . Sprinkle the yeast on the surface of 10 times its weight of clean, sterilized (boiled) water at 30-35°C. Do not use wort, or distilled or reverse osmosis water, as loss in viability will result. DO NOT STIR. Leave undisturbed for 15 minutes, then stir to suspend yeast completely, and leave it for 5 more minutes at 30-35°C. Then adjust temperature to that of the wort and inoculate without delay. . Attemperate in steps at 5-minute intervals of 10°C to the temperature of the wort by mixing aliquots of wort. Do not allow attemperation to be carried out by natural heat loss. This will take too long and could result in loss of viability or vitality. . Temperature shock, at greater than 10°C, will cause formation of petite mutants leading to long-term or incomplete fermentation and possible formation of undesirable flavours. . Nottingham British Ale yeast has been conditioned to survive rehydration. The yeast contains an adequate reservoir of carbohydrates and unsaturated fatty acids to achieve active growth. It is unnecessary to aerate wort. Steve W (in Aus)
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Date: 20 Oct 2006 18:22:55
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Yeast Recommendation
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On Fri, 20 2006 03:13:10 GMT, <adlab@bigponddotnetdotau.trashthisbit > wrote: >> I definitely agree about the dry yeast idea except that I would still >> aerate and skip the rehydration. >> > > From Danstar's website regarding the use of Nottingham. I know that's what the yeast company says, but I don't agree with it. In my experience, pitching dry yeast without rehydrating works perfectly fine. There's no real need to rehydrate it, and if you do it at the wrong temp you can do more harm than good. IMO, it's an unnecessary step with no real benefit. John.
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Date: 20 Oct 2006 16:25:50
From: Jim
Subject: Re: Yeast Recommendation
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John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote on 10/20/2006 2:22 PM: > On Fri, 20 2006 03:13:10 GMT, <adlab@bigponddotnetdotau.trashthisbit> wrote: >>> I definitely agree about the dry yeast idea except that I would still >>> aerate and skip the rehydration. >>> >> From Danstar's website regarding the use of Nottingham. > > I know that's what the yeast company says, but I don't agree with it. In > my experience, pitching dry yeast without rehydrating works perfectly fine. > There's no real need to rehydrate it, and if you do it at the wrong temp > you can do more harm than good. IMO, it's an unnecessary step with no > real benefit. > > > John. I have thrown dry yeast directly into every batch of beer I have brewed with no issues. Pitching it in warm water or warm wort, whats the difference? My bet is they are trying to avoid people pitching in to wort that is too hot thus killing the yeast. This is a great exercise in thinking for yourself. Jim
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Date: 18 Oct 2006 17:06:12
From: Spitzbuben
Subject: Re: Yeast Recommendation
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I'm not sure if you have ever used malto dextrine but I would suggest using a 1-2qt pot, disolving it in some water and then adding it to your brew pot. Malto Dex seems to have a nasty habit of clumping and carmelizing at the bottom of a pot. As far as moving some stuff around and yeast choice.... I would do a 1056 or WLP001 (California Ale) on the first, maybe a English Ale. The second, 3068 or 3333 Weihenstephan or German Wheat. I would also think about switching the Fuggles and Northern Brewer. Although that leaves you with some HIGH Alpha Acid hops in the first one... Either way your gonna make some good brew...Good luck!!! Jim wrote: > What are your thoughts on these two recipes? > > 6# Light DME > 1# Crystal > 8oz Malto Dextrin > Galena Hops > Willamete Hops > Fuggle Hops > Crystal Hops > > 63 Wheat DME > 1/2# Light DME (I have 1# to use) > Northern Brewer Hops (Whatever that is) I can swap this too > > > Feedback is appreciated. > > Jim
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