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Date: 20 Jun 2006 23:56:57
From: David
Subject: Question regarding priming using light DME
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Hello all,
This is my first post here. I learned this evening I will be bottling 7
gallons of a fantastic summer ale tomorrow evening.
For the final part of the recipe, it calls for priming the beer using
malt extract. I presume the writers of this recipe meant liquid malt
extract, but I have the dry type (DME).
I understand there is a correlation of 1 part DME is more or less =
1.25 parts liquid (LME).
Here's my question.
I'm presuming I need to boil the 1/2 pound of DME with water to help
get it into solution... but... how *much* water? Remember this is
simply to be used for priming, so I don't want to add too much.
On the other hand, do I need to boil it at all? or just add the powder
directly to the beer and then bottle?
Your input is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
David
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Date: 21 Jun 2006 13:47:48
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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On 20 Jun 2006 23:56:57 -0700, <google@oregonwines.com > wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> This is my first post here. I learned this evening I will be bottling 7
> gallons of a fantastic summer ale tomorrow evening.
>
> For the final part of the recipe, it calls for priming the beer using
> malt extract. I presume the writers of this recipe meant liquid malt
> extract, but I have the dry type (DME).
IMO, just prime your beer with plain sugar. It's cheaper and will give a
more predictable level of carbonation. There's no real benefit to
priming with extract.
> I understand there is a correlation of 1 part DME is more or less =
> 1.25 parts liquid (LME).
Yep. LME is 20% water.
> Here's my question.
>
> I'm presuming I need to boil the 1/2 pound of DME with water to help
> get it into solution... but... how *much* water? Remember this is
> simply to be used for priming, so I don't want to add too much.
The amount of water doesn't really matter. Just enough to disolve all
of the DME.
> On the other hand, do I need to boil it at all? or just add the powder
> directly to the beer and then bottle?
Boiling it in water first will help the DME/LME (or IMO preferably sugar) to
more evenly disolve into the beer. You could add the powder directly, but
you may end up with inconsistent carbonation between bottles if it isn't
thoroughly disolved before you bottle.
John.
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Date: 21 Jun 2006 06:27:19
From: MarkMc
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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Hi David
When I started brewing I used to prime with DME - I'd determine the
amount to add by using the promash software to determine the level of
carbonation I wanted.
I'd usually boil with a litre of de-chlorinated tap water for 5 mins in
a saucepan on the kitchen stove, cool to room temperature, and add to a
bottling bucket (all under sanitary conditions).
I'd then run the beer on top of that (in to the bottling bucket), and
give it a *very* gentle stir before bottling and capping.
Now I just prime with corn sugar which has been boiled in water and
treated in the same way as suggested above. No taste differences, and
seems to clear a lot quicker in the bottle. Quite possibly seems to
come in to condition (carbonate) quicker too.
Regards,
Mark
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Date: 21 Jun 2006 00:47:09
From: David
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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Hi Steve,
Ah, I should have prefaced it with this: the final addition of malt is
just for priming. Understood it will not add sweetness, and may add
cloudiness. It's just to add a bit of carbonation once bottled. In
short, I have 1/2 pound of light DME that I presume needs to get into
solution before I add it to the beer (and then bottle)..Or do I need to
dissovle/boil it, or can I simply add the DME directly to the beer, mix
well, and then bottle?
This may be a NW trend here... many microbreweries krausen their beers
using malt... end result is an unfiltered, somewhat cloudy brew that is
very rich with a rounded appeal.. but definitely not the same as the
filtered crystal ales you typically find on the market.
Thanks,
David
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Date: 21 Jun 2006 13:51:00
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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On 21 Jun 2006 00:47:09 -0700, <google@oregonwines.com > wrote:
> This may be a NW trend here... many microbreweries krausen their beers
> using malt... end result is an unfiltered, somewhat cloudy brew that is
> very rich with a rounded appeal.. but definitely not the same as the
> filtered crystal ales you typically find on the market.
Commercial breweries do it, but IMO it's a practice that doesn't translate
well to homebrewing. On a home scale, there's just no reason for it and
plain sugar will give better results. However, don't let that discourage
you. I can make recommendations, but in the end it's your beer. If you
really want to prime with extract, go for it.
John.
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Date: 27 Jun 2006 09:37:43
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote:
>
> On 21 Jun 2006 00:47:09 -0700, <google@oregonwines.com> wrote:
> > This may be a NW trend here... many microbreweries krausen their beers
> > using malt... end result is an unfiltered, somewhat cloudy brew that is
> > very rich with a rounded appeal.. but definitely not the same as the
> > filtered crystal ales you typically find on the market.
>
> Commercial breweries do it, but IMO it's a practice that doesn't translate
> well to homebrewing. On a home scale, there's just no reason for it and
> plain sugar will give better results. However, don't let that discourage
> you. I can make recommendations, but in the end it's your beer. If you
> really want to prime with extract, go for it.
John, I'm replying here, but this really goes to the message you replied
to, which isn't showing for me...
oregonwines, I live in Eugene and am pretty familiar with the brewing
scene in OR. Could you point ou a brewery using the method you
describe? I'm not aware of any, and I'm afraid your explanation doesn't
make sense to me...
---------- >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
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Date: 23 Jun 2006 16:30:11
From: bregent
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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In article <1150876028.941217.108380@y41g2000cwy.googlegroups.com >, David
says...
>This may be a NW trend here... many microbreweries krausen their beers
>using malt... end result is an unfiltered, somewhat cloudy brew that is
>very rich with a rounded appeal.. but definitely not the same as the
>filtered crystal ales you typically find on the market.
This is totally different. Krausening means that they are adding green beer at
high krausen to create secondary fermentation. The idea is that, along with a
bit of fermentables, you are also adding fresh yeast to help with the secondary
fermentation. And FWIW, there are plenty of krausened beers that are crystal
clear, and unkrausened beers that are cloudy. All depends on how it's processed.
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Date: 21 Jun 2006 07:30:21
From: QD Steve
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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"David" <google@oregonwines.com > wrote in message
news:1150873017.176814.207810@y41g2000cwy.googlegroups.com...
> Hello all,
>
> This is my first post here. I learned this evening I will be bottling 7
> gallons of a fantastic summer ale tomorrow evening.
>
> For the final part of the recipe, it calls for priming the beer using
> malt extract. I presume the writers of this recipe meant liquid malt
> extract, but I have the dry type (DME).
>
> I understand there is a correlation of 1 part DME is more or less =
> 1.25 parts liquid (LME).
>
> Here's my question.
>
> I'm presuming I need to boil the 1/2 pound of DME with water to help
> get it into solution... but... how *much* water? Remember this is
> simply to be used for priming, so I don't want to add too much.
>
> On the other hand, do I need to boil it at all? or just add the powder
> directly to the beer and then bottle?
>
> Your input is greatly appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
>
> David
Personally David, I don't think that adding malt at this stage will have any
affect on flavour. The reason you're adding sugar of any sort is to bottle
(or keg) ferment just enough to produce a desired level of carbonation. It
will have an extremely minimal affect on the alcohol volume. With this in
mind, most brewers add a 'sugar' which ferments out completely leaving the
minimum amount of residue. Although malt will leave slightly more residue
than cane or corn sugar, and may not be that noticable, remember that malt
is not 100% fermentable and *may* add a haze to the finished beer. I have
used corn sugar and ordinary table sugar and both work very well. The
general rule of thumb is 1/3rd cup sugar to 5gal. You need more with malt
extract but that depends on it's fermentability. The flavour profile of your
beer has already been determined and I suggest use sugar.
Steve W (in Aus)
>
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Date: 22 Jun 2006 23:21:44
From: David
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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Hi John, everyone,
Wow, thanks so much for all this great feedback. What a welcome change
from some lists. I've been given a reprieve until tomorrow noon, when a
good friend is coming by to help with bottling. I'll report results
then.
BTW.. the reason I was wanting to use DME is that I have it in-hand,
just need to use it up... although I also have some corn sugar... I'm
all about experimenting and finding out new things. If you want to know
more about my brewing operations, I do have a blog where I'm tracking
brewnotes, but don't want to post the link here unless you think it
would be okay. Otherwise, I'd be happy to provide it off-list.
Thanks again,
David
John 'Shaggy' Kolesar wrote:
> On 21 Jun 2006 00:47:09 -0700, <google@oregonwines.com> wrote:
> > This may be a NW trend here... many microbreweries krausen their beers
> > using malt... end result is an unfiltered, somewhat cloudy brew that is
> > very rich with a rounded appeal.. but definitely not the same as the
> > filtered crystal ales you typically find on the market.
>
> Commercial breweries do it, but IMO it's a practice that doesn't translate
> well to homebrewing. On a home scale, there's just no reason for it and
> plain sugar will give better results. However, don't let that discourage
> you. I can make recommendations, but in the end it's your beer. If you
> really want to prime with extract, go for it.
>
>
> John.
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Date: 23 Jun 2006 16:26:43
From: bregent
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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In article <1151043704.738840.323160@y41g2000cwy.googlegroups.com >, David
says...
>
>Hi John, everyone,
>
>Wow, thanks so much for all this great feedback. What a welcome change
>from some lists. I've been given a reprieve until tomorrow noon, when a
>good friend is coming by to help with bottling. I'll report results
>then.
>
>BTW.. the reason I was wanting to use DME is that I have it in-hand,
>just need to use it up... although I also have some corn sugar... I'm
>all about experimenting and finding out new things. If you want to know
>more about my brewing operations, I do have a blog where I'm tracking
>brewnotes, but don't want to post the link here unless you think it
>would be okay. Otherwise, I'd be happy to provide it off-list.
FWIW, most homebrewers that I know have tried priming with malt at one point or
another, and all have gone back to using corn/cane sugar. The main reason is
that it doesn't add anything, except a little excitment wondering if your beer
will carbonate enough or create bottle bombs. The problem with priming with malt
is that, unless you know the fermentability of the malt you are using, you have
no idea how much to use.
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Date: 23 Jun 2006 16:33:39
From: bregent
Subject: Re: Question regarding priming using light DME
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In article <1150873017.176814.207810@y41g2000cwy.googlegroups.com >, David
says...
>
>Hello all,
>
>This is my first post here. I learned this evening I will be bottling 7
>gallons of a fantastic summer ale tomorrow evening.
>
>For the final part of the recipe, it calls for priming the beer using
>malt extract. I presume the writers of this recipe meant liquid malt
>extract, but I have the dry type (DME).
>
>I understand there is a correlation of 1 part DME is more or less =
>1.25 parts liquid (LME).
>Here's my question.
>
>I'm presuming I need to boil the 1/2 pound of DME with water to help
>get it into solution... but... how *much* water? Remember this is
>simply to be used for priming, so I don't want to add too much.
For the purpose of priming, the ratio between DME and LME is unimportant. The
important fact you need to know is, how much fermentable sugar are you adding.
Unless you know the fermentability rate of the extract you are using and that of
the recipe authors, converting between DME and LME is moot.
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