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Main
Date: 04 Nov 2006 00:50:59
From:
Subject: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
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Hey all... my brother brewed a barleywine about 2 months ago that ended up being a bit bigger than he'd planned. Vital statistics:
16 lbs base 2-row
6 lbs Vienna
2 lbs Crystal 40 lbs
1 lb Crystal 60
1 lb Carapils
1 lb wheat
1/4 lb roasted barley.
Mashed 151F for 120 minutes.
Sparged about 10 gallons and boiled to about 5.5. OG was 1.130.
White Labs WLP001 California ale yeast on a very active yeast cake from a previous batch.
Anyway, for the last 3-4 weeks, it's been stuck at 1.045-1.050. Were there too many unfermentiables in the recipe? Any chance of
using Beano to bring it back down to more like 1.025-1.030 where it should be? Can we use Campden tablets to kill the yeasties if it
starts going lower than that?
-Cory
--
*************************************************************************
* Cory Papenfuss, Ph.D., PPSEL-IA *
* Electrical Engineering *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
*************************************************************************
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Date: 03 Nov 2006 20:59:01
From: Wayne
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
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papenfussDIESPAM@juneauDOTmeDOTvt.edu wrote:
> Hey all... my brother brewed a barleywine about 2 months ago that ended up being a bit bigger than he'd planned. Vital statistics:
{grain bill snipped}
>
> Mashed 151F for 120 minutes.
> Sparged about 10 gallons and boiled to about 5.5. OG was 1.130.
> White Labs WLP001 California ale yeast on a very active yeast cake from a previous batch.
>
> Anyway, for the last 3-4 weeks, it's been stuck at 1.045-1.050. Were there too many unfermentiables in the recipe? Any chance of
> using Beano to bring it back down to more like 1.025-1.030 where it should be? Can we use Campden tablets to kill the yeasties if it
> starts going lower than that?
>
With 4 pounds of crystal in your recipe, you do have a lot of
unfermentables in this beer. Your mash temp and time shouldn't have
added much more in the way of fermentables, though a mash temp of around
147-148 would have been a little better. You currently have 65%
attenuation which may be all you may be able to get with all that
crystal. Even 75% would only give you 1.030 for a final gravity.
Before trying Beano, I would let it sit for another 3 months and recheck
the gravity at that time. I had a barleywine that was similarly stuck
at 1.030 (from 1.094) after 6 months. At 12 months it had crept down to
1.022. At 18 months it finished out at 1.013. Is now an excellent BW
that has already taken a first place in a major competition even though
the judges commented that it is still too young and will improve with
age. Just be patient, you will need to age this thing for a year or two
anyway. You may be suprised at what this thing may do. If the gravity
hasn't dropped any in three more months, then you might try adding some
yeast at high krausen and a little beano. Just make the beano treatment
your last resort before dumping the beer down the drain.
Wayne
Bugeater Brewing Company
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Date: 04 Nov 2006 13:41:57
From:
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
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: With 4 pounds of crystal in your recipe, you do have a lot of
: unfermentables in this beer. Your mash temp and time shouldn't have
: added much more in the way of fermentables, though a mash temp of around
: 147-148 would have been a little better. You currently have 65%
: attenuation which may be all you may be able to get with all that
: crystal. Even 75% would only give you 1.030 for a final gravity.
When we were thinking up the recipe, we more or less followed an extract recipe that I'd used before. That one was about 1.100
(which is what we were shooting for on his), but it fermented down to 1.025 after only about 2 weeks. I've never experienced WLP001 only
going to 65%... I've almost always seen it go to at least 75% if not 80.
: Before trying Beano, I would let it sit for another 3 months and recheck
: the gravity at that time. I had a barleywine that was similarly stuck
: at 1.030 (from 1.094) after 6 months. At 12 months it had crept down to
: 1.022. At 18 months it finished out at 1.013. Is now an excellent BW
: that has already taken a first place in a major competition even though
: the judges commented that it is still too young and will improve with
: age. Just be patient, you will need to age this thing for a year or two
: anyway. You may be suprised at what this thing may do. If the gravity
: hasn't dropped any in three more months, then you might try adding some
: yeast at high krausen and a little beano. Just make the beano treatment
: your last resort before dumping the beer down the drain.
I'll also mention that in the past month, he's pitched 2 or 3 vigorously fermenting yeast starters on it and has managed to get
only 3 points. One of them was accidentally a Kolsch yeast (oops!), but it didnt' seem to matter.
My biggest question is whether or not the fermentation can be stopped if the beano is taking it down too low. Looking at the
alcohol tolerance for the WLP001, it says 15% is the max... which would put it at 1.021. That'd be plenty dry (although probably not *too*
dry). After some googling, I haven't found much in the way of people trying to *stop* beano... just that one needs to be careful.
-Cory
--
*************************************************************************
* Cory Papenfuss, Ph.D., PPSEL-IA *
* Electrical Engineering *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
*************************************************************************
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Date: 06 Nov 2006 16:27:20
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
On Sat, 4 Nov 2006 13:41:57 +0000 (UTC), <papenfussDIESPAM@juneauDOTmeDOTvt.edu > wrote:
> When we were thinking up the recipe, we more or less followed an
> extract recipe that I'd used before. That one was about 1.100
> (which is what we were shooting for on his), but it fermented down to 1.025
> after only about 2 weeks. I've never experienced WLP001 only
> going to 65%... I've almost always seen it go to at least 75% if not 80.
The attenuation you get on a batch has a lot more to do with the profile
of the wort and the amount of unfermentables than it does the yeast.
It's the Crystal that's effecting your FG, not the WLP001.
> My biggest question is whether or not the fermentation can be
> stopped if the beano is taking it down too low.
You're probably not going to be able to stop it.
> Looking at the alcohol tolerance for the WLP001, it says 15% is the max...
> which would put it at 1.021. That'd be plenty dry (although probably not
> *too* dry).
I wouldn't rely on this. The alcohol tolerance is probably a ballpark
guess.
> After some googling, I haven't found much in the way of people trying to
> *stop* beano... just that one needs to be careful.
I don't think there is a reliable way to stop it on your terms. Using beano
is basically a crap shoot. It'll stop when it decides to, once you add it
there's not much you can do to control it.
John.
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Date: 03 Nov 2006 21:44:50
From: Phil
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
On Sat, 4 Nov 2006 00:50:59 +0000 (UTC),
papenfussDIESPAM@juneauDOTmeDOTvt.edu wrote:
> Hey all... my brother brewed a barleywine about 2 months ago that ended up being a bit bigger than he'd planned. Vital statistics:
>16 lbs base 2-row
>6 lbs Vienna
>2 lbs Crystal 40 lbs
>1 lb Crystal 60
>1 lb Carapils
>1 lb wheat
>1/4 lb roasted barley.
>
>Mashed 151F for 120 minutes.
>Sparged about 10 gallons and boiled to about 5.5. OG was 1.130.
>White Labs WLP001 California ale yeast on a very active yeast cake from a previous batch.
>
> Anyway, for the last 3-4 weeks, it's been stuck at 1.045-1.050. Were there too many unfermentiables in the recipe? Any chance of
>using Beano to bring it back down to more like 1.025-1.030 where it should be? Can we use Campden tablets to kill the yeasties if it
>starts going lower than that?
I'm going to guess that you should've mashed at a lower temperature
and all the fermentables are gone.
Beano can bring the gravity down, but you can't control how far it'll
go. I don't think campden tablets will work when the batch is
actively fermenting.
Phil
======
visit the New York City Homebrewers Guild website:
http://www.hbd.org/nychg
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Date: 06 Nov 2006 16:18:43
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
On Sat, 4 Nov 2006 00:50:59 +0000 (UTC), <papenfussDIESPAM@juneauDOTmeDOTvt.edu > wrote:
> Hey all... my brother brewed a barleywine about 2 months ago that
> ended up being a bit bigger than he'd planned. Vital statistics:
> 16 lbs base 2-row
> 6 lbs Vienna
> 2 lbs Crystal 40 lbs
> 1 lb Crystal 60
> 1 lb Carapils
> 1 lb wheat
> 1/4 lb roasted barley.
That's quite a bit of Crystal/Carapils, probably contributed a lot of
unfermentables.
> Mashed 151F for 120 minutes.
> Sparged about 10 gallons and boiled to about 5.5. OG was 1.130.
> White Labs WLP001 California ale yeast on a very active yeast cake from a
> previous batch.
>
> Anyway, for the last 3-4 weeks, it's been stuck at 1.045-1.050.
1.045 would give you 65% attenuation. Kinda low for an all grain, but not
horrible depending on the recipe.
> Were there too many unfermentiables in the recipe?
Yeah, I think this is your main issue. There are 4 lbs of Crystal/Carapils
malts in there. That's a lot for one recipe. That's probably what is
giving you the high FG.
> Any chance of using Beano to bring it back down to more like 1.025-1.030
> where it should be?
Use Beano at your own risk. It's likely to cause the opposite problem and
make the beer way too dry. Once you add beano, it's difficult to stop it.
Personally, I'd probably leave the beer alone. 65% attenuation isn't
terrible, but it may taste a little sweet depending on what hopping rate
you used.
However, if you consider it currently undrinkable and are thinking about
dumping it, then you might as well give beano a shot. I'd only use it
as a last resort though, if the batch is otherwise undrinkable.
> Can we use Campden tablets to kill the yeasties if it starts going lower
> than that?
Not really. I don't think campden tablets are as reliable for killing the
yeast in a beer as they are in a wine. I'd suspect that the fermentation
would keep going anyway.
John.
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Date: 06 Nov 2006 16:29:10
From:
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
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: That's quite a bit of Crystal/Carapils, probably contributed a lot of
: unfermentables.
Like I said, it's based on an extract recipe I used in the past. That one
turned out really good, but was only 1.100.
: > Mashed 151F for 120 minutes.
: > Sparged about 10 gallons and boiled to about 5.5. OG was 1.130.
: > White Labs WLP001 California ale yeast on a very active yeast cake from a
: > previous batch.
: >
: > Anyway, for the last 3-4 weeks, it's been stuck at 1.045-1.050.
: 1.045 would give you 65% attenuation. Kinda low for an all grain, but not
: horrible depending on the recipe.
: > Were there too many unfermentiables in the recipe?
: Yeah, I think this is your main issue. There are 4 lbs of Crystal/Carapils
: malts in there. That's a lot for one recipe. That's probably what is
: giving you the high FG.
Live and learn, I guess. This was my/our first attempt at an AG barleywine.
On the plus side, the 1.042 second runnings (a.k.a. "Barelywine Droppings.") turned
out to be a *very* good brown ale "session" beer.
: > Any chance of using Beano to bring it back down to more like 1.025-1.030
: > where it should be?
: Use Beano at your own risk. It's likely to cause the opposite problem and
: make the beer way too dry. Once you add beano, it's difficult to stop it.
: Personally, I'd probably leave the beer alone. 65% attenuation isn't
: terrible, but it may taste a little sweet depending on what hopping rate
: you used.
: However, if you consider it currently undrinkable and are thinking about
: dumping it, then you might as well give beano a shot. I'd only use it
: as a last resort though, if the batch is otherwise undrinkable.
: > Can we use Campden tablets to kill the yeasties if it starts going lower
: > than that?
: Not really. I don't think campden tablets are as reliable for killing the
: yeast in a beer as they are in a wine. I'd suspect that the fermentation
: would keep going anyway.
Hrm... it seems like there should be *something* that one could use to stop or
at least severely slow down the fermentation. Potassium sorbate, campden, etc. Could
always boil again... heh. :)
How about no beano, but a champagne yeast? I've heard of people trying that
before too, but it doesn't seem like the alcohol is the problem in this beer. What
about the "alcohol toxicity" theory? If the yeast craps out at 15% then that'd be
1.021. Maybe it won't go any lower even with beano.
Thanks for any other thoughts,
-Cory
--
*************************************************************************
* Cory Papenfuss, Ph.D., PPSEL-IA *
* Electrical Engineering *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
*************************************************************************
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Date: 06 Nov 2006 19:08:47
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
On Mon, 6 Nov 2006 16:29:10 +0000 (UTC), <papenfussDIESPAM@juneauDOTmeDOTvt.edu > wrote:
>: That's quite a bit of Crystal/Carapils, probably contributed a lot of
>: unfermentables.
>
> Like I said, it's based on an extract recipe I used in the past.
> That one turned out really good, but was only 1.100.
It's tough to draw a correlation between extract and all-grain recipes. The
attenuation of extracts are all over the place. Generally the all-grain
batch attenuates further, but it's possible to see it go the other way
if you happened to be using a *really* fermentable brand of extract.
> Live and learn, I guess. This was my/our first attempt at an AG barleywine.
> On the plus side, the 1.042 second runnings (a.k.a. "Barelywine Droppings.") turned
> out to be a *very* good brown ale "session" beer.
Heh, "Barleywine Droppings", I like that. :)
>: > Any chance of using Beano to bring it back down to more like 1.025-1.030
>: > where it should be?
>
>: Use Beano at your own risk. It's likely to cause the opposite problem and
>: make the beer way too dry. Once you add beano, it's difficult to stop it.
>: Personally, I'd probably leave the beer alone. 65% attenuation isn't
>: terrible, but it may taste a little sweet depending on what hopping rate
>: you used.
>
>: However, if you consider it currently undrinkable and are thinking about
>: dumping it, then you might as well give beano a shot. I'd only use it
>: as a last resort though, if the batch is otherwise undrinkable.
>
>: > Can we use Campden tablets to kill the yeasties if it starts going lower
>: > than that?
>
>: Not really. I don't think campden tablets are as reliable for killing the
>: yeast in a beer as they are in a wine. I'd suspect that the fermentation
>: would keep going anyway.
>
> Hrm... it seems like there should be *something* that one could use to stop or
> at least severely slow down the fermentation. Potassium sorbate, campden, etc. Could
> always boil again... heh. :)
Beano dropping the FG is an enzyme reaction, not sure how you can stop that.
You're on the right track in thinking about killing the yeast, but I've
never heard of a good way to do that in a beer that doesn't have other
implications. Boiling again would kill the yeast, but it would also boil
off a lot of the alcohol.
> How about no beano, but a champagne yeast? I've heard of people
> trying that before too, but it doesn't seem like the alcohol is the problem
> in this beer
It's true that champagne yeast will generally ferment sugars that beer
yeast will not, and effectively lower your FG. However, champagne yeast
also throws flavors that are not traditional "beer" flavors. It's up
to you. Personally I think it's close enough at 65% that I would just
leave it alone.
> What about the "alcohol toxicity" theory? If the yeast craps out at 15%
> then that'd be 1.021. Maybe it won't go any lower even with beano.
I don't think the stated alcohol toxicity for a particular strain is all
that accurate. There are probably lots of variables that effect it. Plus,
it sounds like you've thrown a lot of additional yeast (of other strains)
in there in an attempt to get it going. I'm not sure what the effective
alcohol limit of your yeast will be. I wouldn't rely on that to stop the
fermentation when you expect it to.
John.
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Date: 06 Nov 2006 20:35:34
From:
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
: > Hrm... it seems like there should be *something* that one could use to stop or
: > at least severely slow down the fermentation. Potassium sorbate, campden, etc. Could
: > always boil again... heh. :)
: Beano dropping the FG is an enzyme reaction, not sure how you can stop that.
: You're on the right track in thinking about killing the yeast, but I've
: never heard of a good way to do that in a beer that doesn't have other
: implications. Boiling again would kill the yeast, but it would also boil
: off a lot of the alcohol.
Maybe not a boil, but elevated temp? I suppose it'd be really difficult to do
that without oxidizing it and damaging the flavor due to the temp.
: > How about no beano, but a champagne yeast? I've heard of people
: > trying that before too, but it doesn't seem like the alcohol is the problem
: > in this beer
: It's true that champagne yeast will generally ferment sugars that beer
: yeast will not, and effectively lower your FG. However, champagne yeast
: also throws flavors that are not traditional "beer" flavors. It's up
: to you. Personally I think it's close enough at 65% that I would just
: leave it alone.
... but you haven't *tasted* it! :) It's still pretty toxicly sweet
wort-like. I know it takes awhile to mellow, but the extract BW I made was mostly
there after 4-6 weeks.
: > What about the "alcohol toxicity" theory? If the yeast craps out at 15%
: > then that'd be 1.021. Maybe it won't go any lower even with beano.
: I don't think the stated alcohol toxicity for a particular strain is all
: that accurate. There are probably lots of variables that effect it. Plus,
: it sounds like you've thrown a lot of additional yeast (of other strains)
: in there in an attempt to get it going. I'm not sure what the effective
: alcohol limit of your yeast will be. I wouldn't rely on that to stop the
: fermentation when you expect it to.
Yeah, the other strain was an accident, actually. Fortunately it didn't do
anything as it was, but of course if the beano-brew changes things, that Kolsch yeast
might kick up a fuss.
Maybe we'll try halvsies with beano. That way we can put half of it away and
fuggetaboutit to see if 6 months will fix it. Even if the beano is unstoppable in the
partital batch, it might be more beer-like sooner (like for Christmas) and then
there's less of it to try to consume before the beano makes rocket fuel.
Thanks for the advice.
-Cory
--
*************************************************************************
* Cory Papenfuss, Ph.D., PPSEL-IA *
* Electrical Engineering *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
*************************************************************************
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Date: 06 Nov 2006 21:20:57
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
On Mon, 6 Nov 2006 20:35:34 +0000 (UTC), <papenfussDIESPAM@juneauDOTmeDOTvt.edu > wrote:
>: > Hrm... it seems like there should be *something* that one could use to stop or
>: > at least severely slow down the fermentation. Potassium sorbate, campden, etc. Could
>: > always boil again... heh. :)
>
>: Beano dropping the FG is an enzyme reaction, not sure how you can stop that.
>: You're on the right track in thinking about killing the yeast, but I've
>: never heard of a good way to do that in a beer that doesn't have other
>: implications. Boiling again would kill the yeast, but it would also boil
>: off a lot of the alcohol.
>
> Maybe not a boil, but elevated temp? I suppose it'd be really
> difficult to do that without oxidizing it and damaging the flavor due to
> the temp.
It's been awhile since I've looked at the numbers, but if I remember
correctly the boiling point of alcohol is pretty close to the temp you'd
need for pasteurization.
> ... but you haven't *tasted* it! :) It's still pretty toxicly sweet
> wort-like. I know it takes awhile to mellow, but the extract BW I made was
> mostly there after 4-6 weeks.
True. It all comes down to how acceptable (or not) you find the current
taste to be. A lot of the sweetness will be dependent on the IBUs that
are there to balance it.
John.
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Date: 07 Nov 2006 02:29:11
From:
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
: > ... but you haven't *tasted* it! :) It's still pretty toxicly sweet
: > wort-like. I know it takes awhile to mellow, but the extract BW I made was
: > mostly there after 4-6 weeks.
: True. It all comes down to how acceptable (or not) you find the current
: taste to be. A lot of the sweetness will be dependent on the IBUs that
: are there to balance it.
True... trouble is:
- We were adjusting the bitterness of the extract recipe that I used... a bit too much hops, so we err'd on the side of
maltiness
- The gravity ended up higher than anticipated, so it's extra malty.
I think it needs to get down to 30-35 before it's going to be reasonable.
-Cory
--
*************************************************************************
* Cory Papenfuss, Ph.D., PPSEL-IA *
* Electrical Engineering *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
*************************************************************************
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Date: 11 Nov 2006 17:43:33
From: Bob F
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
"John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net > wrote in message
> Beano dropping the FG is an enzyme reaction, not sure how you can stop
that.
I thought that beano just converted the unfermentable sugars
to fermentable ones. Then the yeast converts them to alcohol.
So you stop the yeast.
Bob
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Date: 15 Nov 2006 19:31:02
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 17:43:33 -0800, <bobnospam@gmail.com > wrote:
>
> "John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net> wrote in message
>> Beano dropping the FG is an enzyme reaction, not sure how you can stop
> that.
>
> I thought that beano just converted the unfermentable sugars
> to fermentable ones.
Yep, via enzymes. I'm not sure how you can stop the enzyme.
> Then the yeast converts them to alcohol.
> So you stop the yeast.
Yes, theoretically that would work as well. How do you stop the yeast
without negatively effecting the beer though?
John.
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Date: 15 Nov 2006 21:44:53
From:
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
John 'Shaggy' Kolesar <spam@shagg.net > wrote:
: On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 17:43:33 -0800, <bobnospam@gmail.com > wrote:
: >
: > "John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@shagg.net> wrote in message
: >> Beano dropping the FG is an enzyme reaction, not sure how you can stop
: > that.
: >
: > I thought that beano just converted the unfermentable sugars
: > to fermentable ones.
: Yep, via enzymes. I'm not sure how you can stop the enzyme.
Dunno if you can, other than heat?
: > Then the yeast converts them to alcohol.
: > So you stop the yeast.
: Yes, theoretically that would work as well. How do you stop the yeast
: without negatively effecting the beer though?
Maybe the Campden, or something.
Just to provide an update though. As per the lists' suggestion, he only
beano'd a fraction (1.5-2 gallons, I think). That way it's not a total loss either
way and the beano might be drinkable sooner.
Just a crazy idea, but would a beer be totally ruined if brought up to 170
degrees after fermentation to denature the beano enzymes?
-Cory
--
*************************************************************************
* Cory Papenfuss, Ph.D., PPSEL-IA *
* Electrical Engineering *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
*************************************************************************
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Date: 16 Nov 2006 00:17:56
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 21:44:53 +0000 (UTC), <papenfussDIESPAM@juneauDOTmeDOTvt.edu > wrote:
>: Yes, theoretically that would work as well. How do you stop the yeast
>: without negatively effecting the beer though?
>
> Maybe the Campden, or something.
I don't think Campden tablets work the same way in beer that they do in
wine. Something about the pH difference.
> Just a crazy idea, but would a beer be totally ruined if brought up to 170
> degrees after fermentation to denature the beano enzymes?
I don't know about the enzymes, but 170 would probably kill the yeast.
However, 170 is also the boiling point of alcohol. I don't think a
"non-alcoholic" beer is what they had in mind. ;)
John.
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Date: 16 Nov 2006 01:29:45
From:
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
: > Just a crazy idea, but would a beer be totally ruined if brought up to 170
: > degrees after fermentation to denature the beano enzymes?
: I don't know about the enzymes, but 170 would probably kill the yeast.
: However, 170 is also the boiling point of alcohol. I don't think a
: "non-alcoholic" beer is what they had in mind. ;)
I don't think it would take long... just long enough to kill the fermentation. I'd be more concerned about flavor
changes than alcohol loss. At an estimated 15%, it could probably stand to lose a *little*. ;)
-Cory
--
*************************************************************************
* Cory Papenfuss, Ph.D., PPSEL-IA *
* Electrical Engineering *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
*************************************************************************
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Date: 16 Nov 2006 00:09:09
From: Bob F
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
<papenfussDIESPAM@juneauDOTmeDOTvt.edu > wrote in message
> Just a crazy idea, but would a beer be totally ruined if brought
up to 170
> degrees after fermentation to denature the beano enzymes?
I seem to remember reading about cooling to 32F to terminate
fermentation. I am not sure if that was for beer.
Bob
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Date: 21 Nov 2006 16:39:50
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Barelywine stuck ferment advice
|
On Thu, 16 Nov 2006 00:09:09 -0800, <bobnospam@gmail.com > wrote:
>
><papenfussDIESPAM@juneauDOTmeDOTvt.edu> wrote in message
>> Just a crazy idea, but would a beer be totally ruined if brought
> up to 170
>> degrees after fermentation to denature the beano enzymes?
>
> I seem to remember reading about cooling to 32F to terminate
> fermentation. I am not sure if that was for beer.
That'll slow it down, but if the beer warms up the yeast could kick right
back in.
John.
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