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Main
Date: 26 Sep 2006 18:23:54
From: JS
Subject: Alt Issues
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I'm really trying to brew an authentic Dusseldorf Alt. Last time it
ended up too sweet and not enough hops bitterness. This time I
decided to keep the same yeast, WY1338, but to do a mash in the
148-150 range owing to the strain being a low attenuator, and to
exceed the guidlines' IBU recommendation slightly. Here:
5#s Pils
3.5#s Munich
1# Dark Munich
.5# melanoidin
.5# Crystal 48L
1oz de-bittered black
2.5ozs. Spalt to 53 IBUs, boiled 60 min.
I did do a 90 min boil overall. The mash temp began at 150F, and
after 1 hour+ had dipped to 146. OG was 1.052. Pitched a 1.75 ltr.
starter of fresh WY1338. Fermentation seemed healthy.
Now, after 9 days, I racked to 2ndary, and took a reading. 1.022.
Ferm Temp was about 167F. Tasted very clean and malty, but quite
sweet. There was a thick layer of yeast floating on the wort, some of
which I scooped up for another brew. What gets me is that I was
expecting an attenuation close to 70%, and got only about 56%.
I'm thinking that after another week, if the FG hasn't lowered by
much, or at all, I may pitch a partial packet of US56 or Nottingham to
ferment it out more. Does this sound like a reasonable plan? I want
to get the FG down to 1.015. At this point, the ABV is only 3.9%, and
guidelines call for a min. of 4.5%.
Thanks for replies!
John S.
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Date: 26 Sep 2006 18:30:59
From: neal
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
True, but the question is if there are enough fresh nutrients etc that
will allow the second yeast to get past their aerobic respiration
start-up phase and begin the anerobic alcohol ferementation phase.
The purpose of using either some fresh nutrients and/or a bit of fresh
wort will be to allow them to do that. A quart of wort derived from
appropriate extract isn't going to affect 5-6 gallon batch of beer.
Would I biologist speak up on this one? Given the situation are
nutrients or a bit of fresh wort called for or just overkill?
> Right, but as I understand it, there are at present plenty of
> fermentable sugars that the 1338 strain just didn't want to deal with.
> That's why I don't want to introduce more fermentables. A more
> attenuative strain would, I hope, get the gravity down to where I was
> aiming without adding sugars.
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 14:17:35
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
On 26 Sep 2006 18:30:59 -0700, <nrichter@gmail.com > wrote:
>
> True, but the question is if there are enough fresh nutrients etc that
> will allow the second yeast to get past their aerobic respiration
> start-up phase and begin the anerobic alcohol ferementation phase.
The yeast don't go through seperate phases like that. They'll both
reproduce and ferment at the same time in wort. I do agree that the
main issue is that you have enough nutrients to support a good population
growth, otherwise you'll be stuck with the same cell count that you pitch
with, which won't be very effective.
> The purpose of using either some fresh nutrients and/or a bit of fresh
> wort will be to allow them to do that. A quart of wort derived from
> appropriate extract isn't going to affect 5-6 gallon batch of beer.
The main nutrient you need to support a healthy growth in the new yeast is
oxygen though. Everything else they need should already be present in
enough quantity from the original wort. You don't need to add any
fresh wort, just oxygen.
The tricky part is that since fermentation has already gotten well underway,
aerating at this point may lead to oxidation issues. In this situation,
the best thing I can think of to do is to make sure you pitch a really
high cell count. IE, get the population growth that you need in a starter
outside of the main batch, and then pitch that. Alternatively, you could
pitch several packets of dry yeast.
This is all assuming that poor yeast health is the problem in the first place,
which is mostly just a guess at this point. Probably the most reasonable
explanation, but still just a guess.
John.
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Date: 26 Sep 2006 16:09:48
From: neal
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
Sounds reasonable. Your recipie is almost the same as an alt by a
homebrewer named Kellermeister. Ruhrpott alt. He uses 1007
exclusively.
If you do pith a second yeast you might consider making up a quart of
fresh wort with a small bit of hopped extract from a Coopers kit or
something. Give the yeast some fresh sugars... called krausening.
Of course just putting in some yeast nutrient might help as well.
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Date: 26 Sep 2006 19:28:38
From: JS
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
On 26 Sep 2006 16:09:48 -0700, "neal" <nrichter@gmail.com > wrote:
>Sounds reasonable. Your recipie is almost the same as an alt by a
>homebrewer named Kellermeister. Ruhrpott alt. He uses 1007
>exclusively.
>
>If you do pith a second yeast you might consider making up a quart of
>fresh wort with a small bit of hopped extract from a Coopers kit or
>something. Give the yeast some fresh sugars... called krausening.
>
>Of course just putting in some yeast nutrient might help as well.
Right, but as I understand it, there are at present plenty of
fermentable sugars that the 1338 strain just didn't want to deal with.
That's why I don't want to introduce more fermentables. A more
attenuative strain would, I hope, get the gravity down to where I was
aiming without adding sugars.
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 09:07:57
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
JS wrote:
>
> I'm really trying to brew an authentic Dusseldorf Alt. Last time it
> ended up too sweet and not enough hops bitterness. This time I
> decided to keep the same yeast, WY1338, but to do a mash in the
> 148-150 range owing to the strain being a low attenuator, and to
> exceed the guidlines' IBU recommendation slightly. Here:
>
> 5#s Pils
> 3.5#s Munich
> 1# Dark Munich
> .5# melanoidin
> .5# Crystal 48L
> 1oz de-bittered black
> 2.5ozs. Spalt to 53 IBUs, boiled 60 min.
I started gearing up for alt season by doing some research with a couple
bottles of Zum Uerige (in fantastic shape!) last night. The first thing
is that they list only pils malt, crystal malt and roast malt in the
ingredients. No Munich and certainly no melanoidin! The beer has a
pleasantly malty, carmelly aroma that belies the bitterness in the
beer. I'd have to say at least 40 IBU. Very clean and smooth with no
fruitiness.
> I did do a 90 min boil overall. The mash temp began at 150F, and
> after 1 hour+ had dipped to 146. OG was 1.052. Pitched a 1.75 ltr.
> starter of fresh WY1338. Fermentation seemed healthy.
I would have started at 146....
> Now, after 9 days, I racked to 2ndary, and took a reading. 1.022.
> Ferm Temp was about 167F. Tasted very clean and malty, but quite
> sweet. There was a thick layer of yeast floating on the wort, some of
> which I scooped up for another brew. What gets me is that I was
> expecting an attenuation close to 70%, and got only about 56%.
Wow, whats; the hurry in racking? And I'd recommed temps closer to
55-60F.
> I'm thinking that after another week, if the FG hasn't lowered by
> much, or at all, I may pitch a partial packet of US56 or Nottingham to
> ferment it out more. Does this sound like a reasonable plan? I want
> to get the FG down to 1.015. At this point, the ABV is only 3.9%, and
> guidelines call for a min. of 4.5%.
Although I used to use 1338 quite a bit in alts, I've switched over to
1007 after a series of underattenuated 1338 beers. AT the very least,
1338 takes a LOT of time to finish. I'd just be patient if I were you.
------------ >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
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| | |
Date: 27 Sep 2006 12:51:47
From: JS
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 09:07:57 -0700, Denny Conn
<denny.g.conn@ci.eugene.or.us > wrote:
>JS wrote:
>>
>> I'm really trying to brew an authentic Dusseldorf Alt. Last time it
>> ended up too sweet and not enough hops bitterness. This time I
>> decided to keep the same yeast, WY1338, but to do a mash in the
>> 148-150 range owing to the strain being a low attenuator, and to
>> exceed the guidlines' IBU recommendation slightly. Here:
>>
>> 5#s Pils
>> 3.5#s Munich
>> 1# Dark Munich
>> .5# melanoidin
>> .5# Crystal 48L
>> 1oz de-bittered black
>> 2.5ozs. Spalt to 53 IBUs, boiled 60 min.
>
>I started gearing up for alt season by doing some research with a couple
>bottles of Zum Uerige (in fantastic shape!) last night. The first thing
>is that they list only pils malt, crystal malt and roast malt in the
>ingredients. No Munich and certainly no melanoidin! The beer has a
>pleasantly malty, carmelly aroma that belies the bitterness in the
>beer. I'd have to say at least 40 IBU. Very clean and smooth with no
>fruitiness.
Now that intrigues me. I have Al Korzonas' Homebrewing VOL. I, which
I like very much. He refers to the ZU label by way of postulating
that the ingredients had changed since his discussion with the ZU
Brewmaster. He says the listed ingredients are different from what he
had heard firsthand, but the bottle he was reading from listed "Pils,
Munich, and Crystal". So apparently that brewery changes its formula
from time to time.
>> I did do a 90 min boil overall. The mash temp began at 150F, and
>> after 1 hour+ had dipped to 146. OG was 1.052. Pitched a 1.75 ltr.
>> starter of fresh WY1338. Fermentation seemed healthy.
>
>I would have started at 146....
Next time I'll try it.
>> Now, after 9 days, I racked to 2ndary, and took a reading. 1.022.
>> Ferm Temp was about 167F. Tasted very clean and malty, but quite
>> sweet. There was a thick layer of yeast floating on the wort, some of
>> which I scooped up for another brew. What gets me is that I was
>> expecting an attenuation close to 70%, and got only about 56%.
>
>Wow, whats; the hurry in racking? And I'd recommed temps closer to
>55-60F.
I never thought 9 days would be considered rushing things. Now your
temp recommendation I'd follow with the 1007, as its range is stated
at 55-66. But 1338 is listed at 62-72. Since you state below that
1338 is slow to finish, I would think a ferm. temp. below the
recommended range would make it agonizingly slow. But in any case, it
is still working in 2ndary, so I'll just be patient. No rush anyway,
as I had planned on lagering it eventually.
>Although I used to use 1338 quite a bit in alts, I've switched over to
>1007 after a series of underattenuated 1338 beers. AT the very least,
>1338 takes a LOT of time to finish. I'd just be patient if I were you.
I know you've tried several BrewTek strains from slants. What
experience do you have with CL400? Would this produce an authentic
Dusseldorfer?
John S.
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| | | |
Date: 27 Sep 2006 10:04:20
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
JS wrote:
> I know you've tried several BrewTek strains from slants. What
> experience do you have with CL400? Would this produce an authentic
> Dusseldorfer?
It's been 4-5 years since I used it, and all I can really recall is that
it was pretty good...beyond that, I can't say....
----------- >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 16:59:27
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 12:51:47 -0400, < > wrote:
>>Wow, whats; the hurry in racking? And I'd recommed temps closer to
>>55-60F.
>
> I never thought 9 days would be considered rushing things. Now your
> temp recommendation I'd follow with the 1007, as its range is stated
> at 55-66. But 1338 is listed at 62-72. Since you state below that
> 1338 is slow to finish, I would think a ferm. temp. below the
> recommended range would make it agonizingly slow.
The temp ranges given by WYeast and WhiteLabs are often on the high
side. I would not worry at all about going under them. In fact, I
usually ferment at the bottom of or below their recommended ranges.
John.
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 12:57:26
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
JS wrote:
> On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 09:07:57 -0700, Denny Conn
> <denny.g.conn@ci.eugene.or.us> wrote:
>
>> JS wrote:
>>> I'm really trying to brew an authentic Dusseldorf Alt. Last time it
>>> ended up too sweet and not enough hops bitterness. This time I
>>> decided to keep the same yeast, WY1338, but to do a mash in the
>>> 148-150 range owing to the strain being a low attenuator, and to
>>> exceed the guidlines' IBU recommendation slightly. Here:
>>>
>>> 5#s Pils
>>> 3.5#s Munich
>>> 1# Dark Munich
>>> .5# melanoidin
>>> .5# Crystal 48L
>>> 1oz de-bittered black
>>> 2.5ozs. Spalt to 53 IBUs, boiled 60 min.
>> I started gearing up for alt season by doing some research with a couple
>> bottles of Zum Uerige (in fantastic shape!) last night. The first thing
>> is that they list only pils malt, crystal malt and roast malt in the
>> ingredients. No Munich and certainly no melanoidin! The beer has a
>> pleasantly malty, carmelly aroma that belies the bitterness in the
>> beer. I'd have to say at least 40 IBU. Very clean and smooth with no
>> fruitiness.
>
> Now that intrigues me. I have Al Korzonas' Homebrewing VOL. I, which
> I like very much. He refers to the ZU label by way of postulating
> that the ingredients had changed since his discussion with the ZU
> Brewmaster. He says the listed ingredients are different from what he
> had heard firsthand, but the bottle he was reading from listed "Pils,
> Munich, and Crystal". So apparently that brewery changes its formula
> from time to time.
>
>>> I did do a 90 min boil overall. The mash temp began at 150F, and
>>> after 1 hour+ had dipped to 146. OG was 1.052. Pitched a 1.75 ltr.
>>> starter of fresh WY1338. Fermentation seemed healthy.
>> I would have started at 146....
>
> Next time I'll try it.
>
>>> Now, after 9 days, I racked to 2ndary, and took a reading. 1.022.
>>> Ferm Temp was about 167F. Tasted very clean and malty, but quite
>>> sweet. There was a thick layer of yeast floating on the wort, some of
>>> which I scooped up for another brew. What gets me is that I was
>>> expecting an attenuation close to 70%, and got only about 56%.
>> Wow, whats; the hurry in racking? And I'd recommed temps closer to
>> 55-60F.
>
> I never thought 9 days would be considered rushing things. Now your
> temp recommendation I'd follow with the 1007, as its range is stated
> at 55-66. But 1338 is listed at 62-72. Since you state below that
> 1338 is slow to finish, I would think a ferm. temp. below the
> recommended range would make it agonizingly slow. But in any case, it
> is still working in 2ndary, so I'll just be patient. No rush anyway,
> as I had planned on lagering it eventually.
>
>> Although I used to use 1338 quite a bit in alts, I've switched over to
>> 1007 after a series of underattenuated 1338 beers. AT the very least,
>> 1338 takes a LOT of time to finish. I'd just be patient if I were you.
>
> I know you've tried several BrewTek strains from slants. What
> experience do you have with CL400? Would this produce an authentic
> Dusseldorfer?
>
> John S.
>
>
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Zum Uerige is pretty dry, though. We managed to get some very fresh here
last year (Sticke). If they use Munich or melanoidin, I doubt it's very
much.
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Coauthor with Dennis Clark of "Building Robot Drive Trains".
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 11:13:02
From: Denny Conn
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty wrote:
> Zum Uerige is pretty dry, though. We managed to get some very fresh here
> last year (Sticke). If they use Munich or melanoidin, I doubt it's very
> much.
I sampled both the alt and the sticke last night, both very fresh. I
was surprised by the carmel aroma in the sticke, but as you point out,
both were very dry.
---------- >Denny
--
Life begins at 60...1.060, that is.
|
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 09:31:24
From: Mark R
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
"JS" <jayceeessfouratfrontiernetdotnet > wrote in message
news:h49jh2p0ch73ng491jmkvj7gs2d778veso@4ax.com...
> I'm really trying to brew an authentic Dusseldorf Alt. Last time it
> ended up too sweet and not enough hops bitterness. This time I
> decided to keep the same yeast, WY1338, but to do a mash in the
> 148-150 range owing to the strain being a low attenuator, and to
> exceed the guidlines' IBU recommendation slightly. Here:
>
<snip >
>
> I did do a 90 min boil overall. The mash temp began at 150F, and
> after 1 hour+ had dipped to 146. OG was 1.052. Pitched a 1.75 ltr.
> starter of fresh WY1338. Fermentation seemed healthy.
>
> Now, after 9 days, I racked to 2ndary, and took a reading. 1.022.
> Ferm Temp was about 167F. Tasted very clean and malty, but quite
> sweet. There was a thick layer of yeast floating on the wort, some of
> which I scooped up for another brew. What gets me is that I was
> expecting an attenuation close to 70%, and got only about 56%.
>
> I'm thinking that after another week, if the FG hasn't lowered by
> much, or at all, I may pitch a partial packet of US56 or Nottingham to
> ferment it out more.
Nottingham would do the trick if there are still fermentable sugars to be
eaten up. Don't have any experience with 1338 but if the Nottingham works I
would look for a different strain the next time you run that recipe. Have
any other batches had a higher than usual FG lately? If it's not related
just to that one recipe could your thermometer have gone out of whack? Maybe
your mash temps are a little higher than you think
Mark R
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 14:28:21
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
On Tue, 26 Sep 2006 18:23:54 -0400, < > wrote:
> I did do a 90 min boil overall. The mash temp began at 150F, and
> after 1 hour+ had dipped to 146. OG was 1.052. Pitched a 1.75 ltr.
> starter of fresh WY1338. Fermentation seemed healthy.
Is the thermometer accurate? Is your hydrometer accurate? How did you
aerate the wort when you pitched?
> Now, after 9 days, I racked to 2ndary, and took a reading. 1.022.
Yeah, attenuation is pretty low. Did you check to see if it's steady at
1.022 or is it still dropping? Just because it took 9 days to reach 1.022
doesn't really matter as long as it's still dropping.
Have you tried rousing the yeast (swirling the fermenter to stir the
yeast up off the bottom)?
> Ferm Temp was about 167F.
Well, there's your problem! 167F is *way* too hot for fermentation. You've
cooked your yeast! ;)
> I'm thinking that after another week, if the FG hasn't lowered by
> much, or at all, I may pitch a partial packet of US56 or Nottingham to
> ferment it out more.
See my other reply, but if you go that route I would not just pitch a
partial packet. At this point a big hurdle you're going to have to
over come when adding fresh yeast is getting a decent population growth.
If anything, I would pitch several packets of dry yeast.
> Does this sound like a reasonable plan? I want
> to get the FG down to 1.015. At this point, the ABV is only 3.9%, and
> guidelines call for a min. of 4.5%.
My plan of attack would be:
1) Let it go for a few more days and check the SG again. If it's still
dropping, then just leave it alone.
2) If nothing has changed in a few days then try rousing the yeast. Maybe
it has just flocculated early and needs to be stirred up to re-suspend
it in the wort. This will often help get fermentation activity going
again. Maybe warm it up some if the fermentation temp is relatively
low (I'm assuming 167F was really supposed to be 67F).
3) If that doesn't cause your SG to start dropping again then I would pitch
either a really large starter of the same yeast strain you originall used,
or else pitch several packets of a dry yeast.
John.
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 11:13:36
From: JS
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
On 27 Sep 2006 14:28:21 GMT, John 'Shaggy' Kolesar <spam@shagg.net >
wrote:
>On Tue, 26 Sep 2006 18:23:54 -0400, <> wrote:
>> I did do a 90 min boil overall. The mash temp began at 150F, and
>> after 1 hour+ had dipped to 146. OG was 1.052. Pitched a 1.75 ltr.
>> starter of fresh WY1338. Fermentation seemed healthy.
>
>Is the thermometer accurate? Is your hydrometer accurate? How did you
>aerate the wort when you pitched?
>
Yes, yes, and I use an aeration stone and O2.
Now, after 9 days, I racked to 2ndary, and took a reading. 1.022.
>
>Yeah, attenuation is pretty low. Did you check to see if it's steady at
>1.022 or is it still dropping? Just because it took 9 days to reach 1.022
>doesn't really matter as long as it's still dropping.
>
I looked today, and there is still fermentation going on in the
2ndary. I would have thought, based on experience, that 9 days would
have been sufficient to ferment out, but apparently not.
>Have you tried rousing the yeast (swirling the fermenter to stir the
>yeast up off the bottom)?
>
No, because as I pointed out, it seemed to be a true top-cropping
strain, with a thick layer of yeast floating. Not a high flocculator.
>> Ferm Temp was about 167F.
>
>Well, there's your problem! 167F is *way* too hot for fermentation. You've
>cooked your yeast! ;)
>
Typo. 67F. I didn't ferment in an oven.
>> I'm thinking that after another week, if the FG hasn't lowered by
>> much, or at all, I may pitch a partial packet of US56 or Nottingham to
>> ferment it out more.
>
>See my other reply, but if you go that route I would not just pitch a
>partial packet. At this point a big hurdle you're going to have to
>over come when adding fresh yeast is getting a decent population growth.
>If anything, I would pitch several packets of dry yeast.
>
>> Does this sound like a reasonable plan? I want
>> to get the FG down to 1.015. At this point, the ABV is only 3.9%, and
>> guidelines call for a min. of 4.5%.
>
>My plan of attack would be:
>
>1) Let it go for a few more days and check the SG again. If it's still
>dropping, then just leave it alone.
>
>2) If nothing has changed in a few days then try rousing the yeast. Maybe
>it has just flocculated early and needs to be stirred up to re-suspend
>it in the wort. This will often help get fermentation activity going
>again. Maybe warm it up some if the fermentation temp is relatively
>low (I'm assuming 167F was really supposed to be 67F).
>
>3) If that doesn't cause your SG to start dropping again then I would pitch
>either a really large starter of the same yeast strain you originall used,
>or else pitch several packets of a dry yeast.
>
>
>John.
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 15:41:30
From: John 'Shaggy' Kolesar
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 11:13:36 -0400, < > wrote:
> On 27 Sep 2006 14:28:21 GMT, John 'Shaggy' Kolesar <spam@shagg.net>
> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 26 Sep 2006 18:23:54 -0400, <> wrote:
>>> I did do a 90 min boil overall. The mash temp began at 150F, and
>>> after 1 hour+ had dipped to 146. OG was 1.052. Pitched a 1.75 ltr.
>>> starter of fresh WY1338. Fermentation seemed healthy.
>>
>>Is the thermometer accurate? Is your hydrometer accurate? How did you
>>aerate the wort when you pitched?
>>
> Yes, yes, and I use an aeration stone and O2.
No aeration issues then. ;)
> Now, after 9 days, I racked to 2ndary, and took a reading. 1.022.
>>
>>Yeah, attenuation is pretty low. Did you check to see if it's steady at
>>1.022 or is it still dropping? Just because it took 9 days to reach 1.022
>>doesn't really matter as long as it's still dropping.
>>
> I looked today, and there is still fermentation going on in the
> 2ndary. I would have thought, based on experience, that 9 days would
> have been sufficient to ferment out, but apparently not.
I did some quick searching in the group for 1338. It seems to be pretty
common for that strain to perform slowly. At this point, I think you
just need to give it more time.
John.
|
| |
Date: 27 Sep 2006 21:48:19
From: neal
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
> I started gearing up for alt season by doing some research with a couple
> bottles of Zum Uerige (in fantastic shape!) last night. The first thing
> is that they list only pils malt, crystal malt and roast malt in the
> ingredients. No Munich and certainly no melanoidin!
FYI:
I've recently had independent confirmation that the
Schumacher/Enderlein 100% light munich (6.5L) Ant recipie in the
Dornbusch book is authentic. This is from a brewer who interned at
Schumacher....
I also send a recent recipie of my own that included 5% melanoidin for
comment to this brewer... no objections to the use of a bit of
melanoidin.
|
| | |
Date: 28 Sep 2006 09:12:34
From: The Artist Formerly Known as Kap'n Salty
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
|
neal wrote:
>> I started gearing up for alt season by doing some research with a couple
>> bottles of Zum Uerige (in fantastic shape!) last night. The first thing
>> is that they list only pils malt, crystal malt and roast malt in the
>> ingredients. No Munich and certainly no melanoidin!
>
> FYI:
>
> I've recently had independent confirmation that the
> Schumacher/Enderlein 100% light munich (6.5L) Ant recipie in the
> Dornbusch book is authentic. This is from a brewer who interned at
> Schumacher....
>
> I also send a recent recipie of my own that included 5% melanoidin for
> comment to this brewer... no objections to the use of a bit of
> melanoidin.
>
For what it's worth, Alts are sort of all over the map. Zum Uerige
*definitely* has little or no munich or melanoidin malt. Other Alts seem
to be more like dunkels in character -- I can definitely see a recipe
calling for 100% Munich. If you're looking to emulate a particular
brand, you'll need to adjust your grist accordingly.
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Date: 27 Sep 2006 21:38:51
From: neal
Subject: Re: Alt Issues
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> Wow, whats; the hurry in racking? And I'd recommed temps closer to
> 55-60F.
Those are classic alt temps.. however Im Fuchschen ferments in the
70-72F range with their yeast.
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